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All Replies on New Shop Build Question1 (floor framing)

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View Kilo19's profile

New Shop Build Question1 (floor framing)

by Kilo19
posted 11-02-2017 04:39 PM


6 replies so far

View rbrjr1's profile

rbrjr1

170 posts in 322 days


#1 posted 11-22-2017 02:54 PM

hi.
I noticed that no one had replied, so I thought I’d give it a shot.
(I noticed that you said 3/4 SF on center, but I believe you meant every 3/4’, (4SF on center is 24” spacing).

I believe your spacing is inadequate. I think that you’d be better off sticking to conventional framing layout and materials:
2X8 floor joists, 16”OC, spanning not more than 8’ (just split the 22’ dimension into thirds)
so your 2 “floor panels” will actually be three floor panels.

you dont need a double rim joist at the perimeter, make sure you install a couple runs of blocking between joists at each floor span and glue/screw in the plywood subfloor (if you want OSB on the walls, that’s fine but stick with 3/4” plywood as the subfloor).

you could also move to 12” OC for the spacing of the floor joists.

lets get it figured out for you..

I’d double up on the floor framing members in the areas that will have the table saws.

-- only an idiot dismisses an intelligent statement because they dont know anything about the person delivering it.

View richardchaos's profile

richardchaos

583 posts in 496 days


#2 posted 11-27-2017 11:22 AM

Kilo19….. NO matter how smart you are no matter how thought out you think this will be no matter how clairvoyant you are in the planning of this… IT WILL HAVE TO CHANGE once you get going….

Also will the next piece of new equipment you bring into the shop to shoot to hell all your well layed out plans

ALSO put EVERYTHING ON WHEELS. BIGGER WHEELS the better

-- β€œIn a time of universal deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act.” ― George Orwell

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

3069 posts in 1597 days


#3 posted 11-27-2017 02:24 PM

I don’t think 2×6 joists are adequate even if your machines aren’t that heavy. 2×8’s and 2×10’s are pretty standard building practice, at least in my area.

I would consult a builder but when in doubt, my philosophy is always overbuild. So I’m thinking triple the x beams (or use an engineered beam). I would probably go 12” centers and 3/4 T&G subflooring.

You could also so 2 x beams and 16” centers but then you have more piers to build.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View Kilo19's profile

Kilo19

97 posts in 342 days


#4 posted 11-27-2017 03:18 PM



I don t think 2×6 joists are adequate even if your machines aren t that heavy. 2×8 s and 2×10 s are pretty standard building practice, at least in my area.

I would consult a builder but when in doubt, my philosophy is always overbuild. So I m thinking triple the x beams (or use an engineered beam). I would probably go 12” centers and 3/4 T&G subflooring.

You could also so 2 x beams and 16” centers but then you have more piers to build.
- rwe2156

I was mentioning that to my brother in law that I was wondering about the 2×6s’ and he brought up a point. That the 2×6’s i have should have the strength of a 2×8 now a days. these 2×6’s are like 75/80+ yrs old. So i kinda have that going for me. Also its gonna be heck nailing/drilling into this stuff.

p.s. more piers for me isn’t a bad thing. I have solid rock about 12”-20” down, and plan on digging 8” tubes till i hit the top. So it’ll be on a “solid” foundation. No frost line here to worry about. (maybe an inch)

-- Justin

View Roy Turbett's profile

Roy Turbett

168 posts in 3697 days


#5 posted 11-27-2017 08:04 PM

Aside from the framing issues, you have an excellent opportunity to run conduit and dust collection under the floor before everything is enclosed. Speaking from experience, use long sweep elbows for dust collection at the building perimeter and standard 90 degree elbows at the machine hookups, especially the table saw. Its rare for anything to get stuck, but its much easier to retrieve a thin cut-off that gets stuck next to the machine than one that gets stuck further down the line underneath a cabinet or bench. I used PVC under the concrete floor of my shop and didn’t have to run a ground wire because it was already in contact with the ground. If you suspend your dust collection from the joists, you may want to ground it in several locations.

View Kilo19's profile

Kilo19

97 posts in 342 days


#6 posted 11-27-2017 08:13 PM



Aside from the framing issues, you have an excellent opportunity to run conduit and dust collection under the floor before everything is enclosed. Speaking from experience, use long sweep elbows for dust collection at the building perimeter and standard 90 degree elbows at the machine hookups, especially the table saw. Its rare for anything to get stuck, but its much easier to retrieve a thin cut-off that gets stuck next to the machine than one that gets stuck further down the line underneath a cabinet or bench. I used PVC under the concrete floor of my shop and didn t have to run a ground wire because it was already in contact with the ground. If you suspend your dust collection from the joists, you may want to ground it in several locations.

- Roy Turbett

Was def. thinking of that. I plan (hope) to write out my process and steps along the way. When that stage comes up I’ll file it away till then.

Thanks.

-- Justin

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