LumberJocks

Reply by bluekingfisher

  • Advertise with us

Posted on Beginnings of a wall hung tool cabinet

View bluekingfisher's profile

bluekingfisher

1247 posts in 2795 days


#1 posted 03-24-2014 07:58 PM

Pat – it was more a case of maximising the space I have available. I expect I will get everything in I need to. I have measured the largest of the hand tool, the box is designed to accommodate all of them. I will be adding internal doors to the main box and the two front doors. My cabinet is based on the project s below. The exception being I do not need cubbies or shelves as I already have those tools, such as planes etc catered for.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/assets/uploads/posts/45871/cab_opener.jpg
{\rtf1\ansi\ansicpg1252
{\fonttbl\f0\fnil\fcharset0 TimesNewRomanPSMT;}
{\colortbl;\red255\green255\blue255;\red0\green0\blue0;}
\deftab720
\pard\pardeftab720\partightenfactor0

\f0\fs32 \cf2 \expnd0\expndtw0\kerning0
\outl0\strokewidth0 \strokec2 \
}

The first job of today was to fit the front panel which will eventually become the doors. The panel was glued and nailed in using 16 gauge nails.

The back panel was glued and this time screwed on using 45mm screw. The top third is attached to the cabinet while the remainder will be screwed to the wall to form the French cleat.

I them temporarily added the bottom section to provide some extra rigidity to the case when cutting off the front doors.

It was now time for a repair, although I was happy with how the dovetails turned out I did have a blow out on one of them. It only being a tool cabinet my intention was only to make good the repair rather than spend time trying to conceal it. A simple mix of sanding dust and glue was used as a filler.

To ensure I made an accurate cut when lopping off the front doors I drilled a couple of small holes on the inside of the cabinet just at the base and in front of the central divider so I would know where to cut.


I then marked out the cut line all around the box using an adjustable square. The box is now very heavy, heaven only knows what it will weigh when loaded with tools. The plunge saw is very accurate and setting a thin pencil line is enough to achieve a neat and accurate cut.

I tacked on a small scrap of wood on both the top and bottom ensuring the unit would stay complete allowing me to make the cuts and not bind the blade.

With the front section off.

I was pleased with the accuracy of the cut, you can see the cabinet front if flush with the central divider

Rather than leave the exposed plywood cores I decided to band the edges with 6mm thick beech hardwood I salvaged from the scrap bin at the timber yard. I glued and used a 23 gauge pin nailer to attach the edging.

The above photo was taken by SWMBO who came into the shop with a cup of tea for me. I think I’ll keep her.

I began to plane flush the edge banding with the outside of the box but I noticed it coming away from the edge so I will leave it overnight to trim in the morning.

Tomorrow I’ll rip the doors in two and look to install them but this is how it looks as of now. It’s beginning to look like is supposed to. Thanks for tuning in.

David

-- No one plans to fail, they just, just fail to plan


DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com