Reply by Waldschrat

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Posted on How do I fix a Veneered chessboard that's backing "cupped"

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505 posts in 3460 days

#1 posted 04-07-2009 04:00 PM

in sequencial order:


Yes, you are correct, Using an already made plywood is WAY easier, and actually how the Profi´s do it. Nobody messes around making thier own panels in the business I know. BUT I have heard of it… The only time I have ever heard of making your own solid wood core panels by your self is in a old book from Fritz Spannagel called “Der Möbelbau” from 1940! He has a good points in the book refering to the lack of quality solid-wood core man-made-panels/boards, one should make them for himself to assure the highest quality (you see here how seriously germans and thier handworkers take quality—a bit too far sometimes—- and nobody really does that now-a-days anyway…

Souichiro: I would not say “serves me right” usually the highest quality stuff (expensive) is made not to unsimiliar to what you have made with your solid core, we just get it from the factory with the locking veneer already on it in 2×5 metre panels, so you are on the right path, although an expensive one. (unless you have the time of course)

Yes, you should try gluing a backing veneer to the back. Like I said, I can not promise perfect results, but I think this is you best shot. You might want to set it back in your shop for at least a couple of days. By the way an important question…. When or what time of year did you veneer the board? It matters because (well by us in the mountians) in the winter its is drier and summer moister. You will probably have most success if you can reproduce approx the moisture that occured in the air at the time of original veneer pressing.

Its good that you used yellow glue, that means it can be softend with heat, so when you press the backing veneer on the panel, it should then be flexible enough to allow the panel to go flat again.

Souichiro, answers to your quick questions:

1) You can continue using white or yellow glue, (it depends how quick you are) (I use white glue too for small stuff, especially before I mix a bucket of the Urea glue together. this is also depending on how big, or how many things I have to press), you just have to keep in mind that, and this is very important when pressing larger or many things, that the open time of white/yellow glues is on a summer day, can be as short as 1 minute or so. In the winter, when its colder and the water does not evaporate out of the glue so fast it can be up up 12 min or so. This also dependings on the relative humidity. So you can just imagine, doing a larger piece, you have to be quick to get it into the press.

This is one of the real advantages of using the duroplast urea based, or as you called plastic resin glue. The open time is simply longer and it cannot be softened again by heat, once its sets up, it sets up. Not to mention you can cut it with flour to thicken the glue a bit so it does not come through the pores of large pored woods such as oak, ash, or sometimes walnut or cherry.

2) Yes, you read correctly! Always use a “locking” veneer layer, just as you wrote, and always remember the grain of each succeeding layer should be turned to be perpendicular or 90 degrees to the layer under it. That all there is to plywood, and thats how you will keep your selfmade boards straight. If you do it like this you will save your self alot of heartache and work trying to repair it later.

and you are right MDF, chipboard, hardboard, all of them, can be veneered no matter how thin… just keeping in mind that if it is a homogeneous material like MDF it does not matter the grain direction. If it is 3, 5 or 7, ply plywood or something like multiplex (I do know how you call it in english) then always veneer (or the final veneer) perpendicular to the grain underneath it (Generaly the same direction of the core veneer) and always make sure of a symetrical buildup of the layers.

-- Nicholas, Cabinet/Furniture Maker, Blue Hill, Maine

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