LumberJocks

Reply by NiteWalker

  • Advertise with us

Posted on Bench Dog / Rockler Quality- **BIG THUMBS DOWN**

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2738 posts in 2726 days


#1 posted 06-25-2013 10:20 PM

Skip the router plate. It’s not necessary. You could instead rout a spot for shop made inserts. I did just that on a quick router table to test out the idea; I’ll post a pic when I get back up from the shop. You can make it as big or small as you’d like. I made mine 5” square and offset it a bit so the router base mounting screws would be under the inserts. My initial ones were made of 1/4” polycarbonate, but I ordered some 1/4” phenolic on ebay as it’s stiffer. 4screws, one in each corner are used for leveling the inserts. I made a few inserts with different hole sizes so I can change them to suit the task at hand. I very often use 1/2”, 1 1/2” and 2” diameter bits in the same day, so I made inserts with 1”, 1 5/8” and 2 1/8” holes. So far it’s been great and I see no need for a router plate. That’s why you’re seeing sagging where the insert plate hole is; those big holes compromise the structural integrity of the table top. You could make one with a plate and design it to stay flat; you would just need proper bracing underneath.

Some will say otherwise, but I like t-track in a router table. A piece along the top of the fence for featherboards is all that’s needed though IMHO. The fence can be held down with a shop made clamping system. I made mine just like in the plans here, and they hold great.

Miter track is not needed IMHO. Anything you think you’d need a miter slot for can be done without.

A couple of other things too.
The mdf and laminate sheets will be very useful in the shop. You won’t use all of each on the router table, so I see a tablesaw outfeed there too. I would get the 4’x8’ sheet of laminate btw. At lowe’s, a full sheet is only $42 near me.

Now, to answer is there a cheaper way to build your own, aside from skipping the router plate, you could skip the laminate and use shellac or oil based poly with a coat of paste wax after on the table top. I used dewaxed shellac followed by paste wax on my tablesaw zci made out of mdf and it’s held up amazingly. For a router table top I’d probably go for oil based poly since it will likely hold up better than shellac.

You also don’t need a full 1 1/2” thick table top; using thick hardwood braces underneath you could get away with 3/4” or even thinner for a table.

Sorry for the long post; much of it is from studying various designs across the web and in magazines and in videos. A lot comes from pat warner, probably the most influential router guru I’ve studied. I’m on my own quest for the perfect (for me) router table. I’m close…

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.


DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com