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Ripping @ 50*

2K views 17 replies 13 participants last post by  Buckethead 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I am working on a speaker stand project and the riser needs to match the front of the speaker which has a 100 degree angle on the front.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Any suggestions how I can rip boards at 50* since my TS only angles to 45 degrees?

Thanks in advance!
 

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#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
Good idea from Charlie.

You could rip to 45 and do the rest of the angle
on a jointer or with hand planes. On the jointer
you set the fence to 45 and tape a strip of wood
to the workpiece so the angle of presentation
of the work to the cutterhead is a little steeper.

A little geometry lesson though - in order to
make a miter more obtuse than 90 degrees
you actually want more obtuse cuts on the individual
ends. To make an 80 degree corner you subtract
80 from 180 = 100 and divide by 2 = 50.

In order to get a 100 degree (obtuse) corner,
subtract 100 from 180 = 80/2 = 40.

Table saw normally cuts angles subtracted from 90
degrees, so to cut 10 degrees off 90 (100 on
the acute corner and 80 on the obtuse one)
the blade is angled 10 degrees.

Two 90 degree ends butt together to make
a 180 degree flat joint. Remove 1 degree and
the angle becomes an obtuse miter. It is
the acute, pointy miters that present challenges
on the table saw. Old variety saws used
by patternmakers have tilting fences as
well as tilting arbors.
 
#9 ·
Hi Art,
I think Charlie has the right idea … but here is a neat way to insert a ° in your text:
push and hold the ALT, inter 0176, and release the ALT … Is this cool or what …
(The em-bear-ass-ing thing is that I learned that from my g-grand daughter) color me humble.
 
#11 ·
Mike, I knew there was some secret code to do it and I think there is a chart that can be found in Windows listing all kinds of special characters, but I'm lazy, so rather than looking it up, I just type it out on this site. :) Other sites let me use the "*" character, but that gets me bold font on LJ.

I did rip the pieces this AM and it worked fine. I am just waiting for the glue to dry so I can take the next step.
 
#13 ·
Jerry,
Maybe its a west of the Missippi thing?
Could it be a Windows item and you are on an Apple
?
I really don't have a clue why your having a problem, I'm not a computer guy, I have to ask the kids, grand kids or the g-great grand kids …

Art,
Yeah, I know what you mean, ... I have one and only one memorized, don't know where to look up the rest so I spell it out.
 
#15 ·
Hold on a doggoned minute.

If one rips a board on a 40 degree ( iPad doesn't have an alt key) bevel, the cutoff piece will be at 40 degrees as well. The heel of the cut will be at 50 degrees.

In order to achieve a 50 degree bevel, one would need to set the saw back to 90 and recut at the short point of the bevel created previously at 40 degrees.

Perhaps a jig is in order here. That is a pretty squirrelly cut to make, let alone the potential danger if attempting to utilize the fence as a guide for the long point of the bevel.
 
#17 ·
Hi, Buckethead,
I ripped 2 sides of a board to 40 degrees with the point of the bevel up and against the fence for the second rip. Then I ripped the board at 90 degrees twice to get the width I needed, again with the points of the bevels up. The 2 cut offs were scrap. Finally, putting the 2 40 degree bevels together gave me the 100 degrees I needed. Does this make sense? Also, I didn't feel like the procedure was any more dangerous than any other ripping operation. At least I still have all my fingers and didn't gain any grey hair. :D
 
#18 · (Edited by Moderator)
So you were seeing it. The earlier comments seemed to me to be saying that one side of the blade would produce a 40 degree bevel, while the other side of the blade would produce a 50 degree bevel. I might have been misinterpreting that point. ;-)

Actually… I was misinterpreting the entire post. Upon closer inspection, you measured 100 degrees from the face of one surface to the face of the other surface but at the exterior of the unit. (A closer look at the picture shows the front of the speaker forming less than a 90 degree angle) Hence Loren's geometry lesson. That is where the need to subtract from 180 came in. There was no need for a 50 degree beveled cut.

I seem to have had the dial in my mind flipped backwards. Lisdexia is a bummer.
 
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