LumberJocks

Reply by Whiskers

  • Advertise with us

Posted on A question about materials

View Whiskers's profile

Whiskers

389 posts in 770 days


#1 posted 04-25-2013 05:30 AM

Thanks Lee for the comments about my novel use of joint compound. I have done a good bit of sheetrock work myself, so yes I know how it behaves. A few words about that. When doing wood, if your filling voids, it don’t really matter so it better to go ahead and take the stuff off the top of the can cause it tends to be dryer than what is inside the can, but when skimming the surface to fill pores, you want the wetter stuff that is covered up, it will suck in better and stick. For sanding get those screens made for the purpose. Sandpaper hates joint compound. Clogs it right up. Use the screens and they last a long time. Works just fine in my 30+ year old craftsman jitterbug. Important, Sand promptly. Wait til it completely dries of course, or you just clog up, but sand immediately. Usually within hours. Don’t wait a day. Joint compound cures and becomes super hard. Much easier to sand if you get to it when it first dries. And it don’t have to be perfectly smooth cause by definition your going to be painting it. You’ll actually save money cause the compound seals the wood so it don’t just suck up a ton of expensive primer necessitating extra coats. How did I learn to do this? Well I used to make models and they sold this expensive sealer stuff for balsa, which is kind of course wood, but you wanted a mirror smooth finish. I once had a cheap project I was doing that I really didn’t care that much about, But wanted it to look decent enough and thought about the sealer from than. Well they don’t make such a thing for construction wood and it just kind of hit me. I also joint compound to fill small cracks and voids. If you got something more major, like a thru knot hole in solid wood, I woudn’t use joint compound, I bought a can of automotive bondo which is a idea I got from one of you guys somewhere. Joint compound is great for filling those voids from missing knotholes on the bad side of CDX though. Really helps hide the fact your cheaped out on material when you open the cabinet. Just kind of a footnote for those who aren’t sure, how big a void/hole/crack can you fill? well joint compound isn’t the best thing for kreg pocket holes. It will shrink too much for that. Can be done, but you’ll have to hit it with a 2nd application of joint compound. Been there done that. That why I bought the bondo.


DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase