If you have a press, you can use it. Some Titebond glues can
be applied to both surfaces, allowed to dry and then reactivated
by ironing the veneer down. This is probably best as a
repair technique.
Depending on veneer thickness and porosity, PVA glues can
come through the veneer enough to mess up finishing.
Contact cement is biest used on apaper backed veneers. For unbacked regular veneers, a wood glue is better. TB will work, I prefer the urea formaldehyde types, usually the powdered glues you mix. I've been wanting to try Unibond 8000 and haven't had the chance yet.
Contact cement moves a lot. I do not recommend using it for veneers. You will most likely have gaps appear later on at the seams or edges. PVA can be used sometimes. Again, it moves and gaps can appear. Unibond 800 Urea formaldehyde glue or similar and epoxy works the best and are very stable.
I tried contact cement once. It was a very expensive mistake. All my nice veneer tore itself apart and ruined the pieces.
I've had best luck with iron on Titebond II: spread on both surfaces (foam brush works well, hacksaw blade works okay), let dry, but not too long, then within 12 hours of spreading it on (important!), use an iron on the veneer. The only problem with this I've had is that the moisture in the glue expands the veneer, and it shrinks when you iron it on, so I had to do a little cyanoacrylate and sandpaper gap filling.
But that veneer is on there rock solid and will take all sorts of abuse.
And no matter what I'll never use contact cement on veneer again.
Hide glue… no press, no clamps…. easy.
Do a search on hammer veneering.
............Or check out this video.
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