Reply by lwllms

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Posted on convex sharpening method?

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555 posts in 3309 days

#1 posted 04-22-2013 12:15 AM

You’re going to end up honing away metal that has no impact on your cutting edge. Traditionally, you grind at 25° and hone at about 30°. After the initial setting up of a new tool, all you’re doing when grinding is maintaining a very small bevel to hone. When honing the bevel it should literally take only a pass or two to raise the wire edge on each grit of stone you use. That wire edge being raised across the whole cutting edge is your indicator that you’ve done all you need to.

Paul Sellers’ method ignores the wear bevel that forms on the flat face. Both surfaces that make up a cutting edge suffer dulling wear as the tool is used. If you don’t remove the wear on the flat face, you’re only addressing half of the cutting edge. Sellers strops, I can’t remember, maybe something like 30 strokes on each surface of the cutting edge. He’s actually spending more time and creating a future problem. Stropping dubs the edge just like dulling wear dubs the edge. Pretty quickly you’ll lose control of the whole process. If you try to strop to a sharp edge you’ll soon give up because success will become elusive and time consuming.

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