Reply by lwllms

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Posted on Truing lumber by hand--how to avoid "oops"

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555 posts in 3306 days

#1 posted 04-07-2013 04:22 PM

First of all Kingshott, like so many so-called experts, really didn’t work by hand. It’s obvious in the videos.

Yes, there are parts in old furniture that were left rough but you need to understand when you can get away with that. The first face and edge you straighten and flatten is your reference face and edge. All your joinery layout is done from these reference surfaces and it’s often necessary for the reference surfaces to be the non-show surfaces. The structural parts of case work is an example. If you want the case and openings for drawers and/or doors square you need to be working from reference surfaces on the inside of the case.

You should be using the proper tools properly set up. It sounds as if you’re traverse planing with a scrub plane. Scrub planes are too aggressive for this and traverse planing, while useful at times, shouldn’t generally be used. The features of the planes make them ideal for specific tasks. Depending on the size of your work, the lion’s share of stock removal should be done with a jack or fore plane having a camber with a 12” to 14” radius. You can remove just as much per pass as with a scrub plane but in a more controlled and shallower manner. Ideally you can then finish up with a trying plane with little or no camber. Only use the smooth plane to deal with localized surface problems on show faces.

Hope this helps.

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