Reply by Charles Wilson

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Posted on Overhead pin router

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Charles Wilson

18 posts in 3771 days

#1 posted 02-26-2013 02:16 AM

Here is a quick shot of one of my routers. Old iron for sure, but still has a lot of life left in it.


I don’t have any pictures of the jigs I use,most of the time I just run one up as needed.
An important thing to remember is the relationship of the “pin to the bit. A pin with the exact diameter as the cutter is the easiest place to start.
1. trimming an overhanging veneer to a substrate. (use a starting block clamped to the table)
2. a fast and easy way to cut evenly spaced dadoes for shelves or dividers.(tack strips or blocks the the underside of an oversize piece of MDF using your parts as spacers for an exact fit the using stops or clamps to secure workpiece to the other side.)
3.using the same concept tack scrap to the underside of a workpiece to define cutouts or recesses for inlays or hardware.

Now if you change the bit to pin relationship by using a smaller pit than bit ,instant rabbit or stepped cut. Take that a little further and mortices and inlays can be cut with the same template.

A fence clamped to the table allows many joint type cuts dado grooves etc. Adding spacers to the fence setup allows evenly spaced or uneven spaced cuts to be made quickly, I use this for making fluted pilasters for furniture or door casing.

If you have any specific tasks in mind, let me know and I will try and take some pics or video to better explain.


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