Reply by Dbear

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Posted on condensation in my new storage steel shed/garage sized

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14 posts in 1943 days

#1 posted 02-25-2013 04:40 PM

Couple of questions first;

Concrete or dirt/stone floor? An open floor will constantly be a source of moisture that migrates to the roof of your building. At the very least you would need some HD polyfilm vapor barrier over bare earth and a layer of sand or stone to help stop the migration of moisture. Best bet is a vapor barrier and insulation under concrete.

Without any vapor barrier under the floor or insulation on the underside of the roof the temperature fluctuations will cause the condensation of moisture on any cold surface when the temp gets above freezing. Just a matter of physics. Moisture always travels from a warm surface to a cold surface.

Best for wood storage: open air but under cover (lean-to type shed) and “stick” the wood, closed space but ventilate mechanically again with “sticking” or an insulated, heated space.

An open air, lean-to shed attached to your main workshop is easy to do. just provide some good vetilation and try to keep water from running through it. A concrete floor with vapor barrier is almost a must.

A closed space, such as your metal building will have to have vapor barrier/sand/stone and or a vapor barrier/solid floor plus some way to keep air moving through it to dispell the moisture.

As to heated space, you can heat a well insulated space with overhead gas fired radiant tube heat for pennies a day. I have a 24×40 well insulated pole barn with 35,000 BTU tube heater . I keep it at 60F for about 50 cents a day. Radiant heat heats the objects in the room and not the air so a building full of wood with a concrete floor would heat real cheap after everything gets warm.
The outdoor wood fired boilers are great too but only if you have a “Cheap” source of wood and tending it isn’t a problem. This type of heat source is great for under floor radiant which can also be supplied by a gas or electric micro boiler/pump system. Gas/electric is expensive for equipment but easy to install initially. Retro fit is problematic for an existing floor. Just make sure to use glycol for your transfer medium and not water. With water, if the power goes out or you loose your heat source you can have major issues with freezing the system and breakage of componenets. Not pretty and very expensive to repair.

I did alot of research when I was putting together my building. I went with the overhead gas fired radiant tube heat, best bang for the buck. Hope this helps.

-- Mark

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