Reply by bandit571

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Posted on About DIY table saws

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19976 posts in 2680 days

#1 posted 02-01-2013 07:49 PM

Ok, let’s just try something here. A few “design’’ points, if you will:

#1) A thick, sturdy top. Two layers of either 3/4 plywood, or mdf.

#2) Mounting a saw. Need to route an area for the saw to sit into, so that one can get a decent height of cut.

#3Mounting the saw, part two: Need to attach the saw with counter sunk bolts and lock washers. Not to clamps, either. Drill through the saw’s base plate. You want zero vibration so that things don’t vibrate loose.

#4) Power source: need a way the have the saw itself stay “On”, and control it with a seperate switch in easy reach. Power cord to the outside switch, saw cord to the outside switch. On some older circ. saws, it means just a few wraps of tape to hold the switch “On”. Newer saw???

#5) miter slot. As in ONE slot, only. Router slot over in the 1-1/2” thick area of the top. Framing square off the slot for the saw blade, to make both match. You can tilt the saw later, right now, you need to mill a miter slot. Miter gauge can be a DIY item as well.

#6) A stand for this: Posts, about either 2×2 or even 4×4 can be made into a stand. Since a lot of job site “benches” (BTDT) are a pair of saw horses with a sheet of 3/4 plywood screwed down to it, You won’t need to make really long legs for this. Just enough to get some room under the saw.

Need some sort of guard over the blade. Maybe a splitter/knife behind it.

#7) Fence: need to build a T-square/Speed square type of fence one can clamp down as needed. IF the front edge of the saw “top” is square to the blade, one could make a cleat to bear against it. Maybe a clamp to clamp the fence in place???

#8) Dust collection: You’re kidding. right??

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