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Reply by Fred Hargis

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Posted on Raised Panel & Divided Light Cabinet Doors

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Fred Hargis

1985 posts in 1217 days


#1 posted 01-29-2013 12:34 PM

Stan, yep…carve it out by hand…although I just used my bench chisels, and was very careful (and nervous).

Don, I’ll try to make this as short as possible, I didn’t cut the muntins with the R/S set. I found I had a roundover bit with exactly the same profile as the R/S bit, and used it to cut the muntins (pic below the profile, which I then ripped to size). The R/S set was used for the cope cuts. The inner tenons are only 1/4” by 1/4” square. The tenons that fit into the door stiles where longer, 1/2” if I recall (I built this about a year ago). My stock was all 7/8” thick so the door frame tenons are 3/8”, and I made them 1” long using my FMT (you could also do loose tenons with a mortise pal or shop built jig). If you’re following onw of the many articles published on building it, I had errors in the one I used. In the second pic you see 2 panel door frames. The one on the left shows my first attempt following the article (Lonnie Bird). Look closely at the width of the shoulders where the curve is, they are not equal; the inside one is longer than the outside one. The door on the right is my second attempt after I redid the measurements by hand on a full scale drawing. Point is, be aware of possible errors depending on the plans/articles/whatever. The doors are by far the toughest part….sounds like your building the full height version…I did the shorter one feeling it was a little too tall for an 8’ ceiling. Hope this is of use. BTW, Roy Underhill built this cabinet and you might find his episodes of use. There are 4, all have “corner cupboard” in the title…of real interest would be the one where he builds the sash. I wish I had seen them before I built mine, they are available to view on his website.
Fred

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.


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