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Never fail no jointer glue joint poor mans jointer

5K views 21 replies 17 participants last post by  inchanga 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I am posting this because I see a lot of folks on a budget making do with what they have. In 1988 I had a pile of oak 5/4×5 and 6 and needed stair treads for my house. At that time my best power tool was a Rockwell 9" contractors saw so I made do. I would like to take credit for this idea but it is so simple I am sure others have thought of it.
1 straighten the boards to be glued on your table saw.
2 put the strait edge against the fence and rip them to a uniform width
3 use some scrap wood for cleats to join the edges to be glued. Do this from the back side of your project. I use 3/4" pine and 1 1/4" drywall screws, I have on occasion used hot glue in place of the screws.
4 Put the widest kerf blade you have on your saw and set the rip fence so the center of the blade will be centered on the crack between the boards to be glued and set the blade height just high enough to cut through them.
5. Run them through the saw and watch to see that the blade is taking some material off both boards. If both boards are not touched by the blade in a few spots just back out the screws push the boards together and do it again.
As you can see by the pictures the result is a perfect joint. Although I now own a jointer I still use this method on stock that is too long to do on my jointer.
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Not being a skilled computer operator some of the photos are out of order but I am sure you guys and gals are bright enough to frigger it out.

Ok I know I did not alternate the grain I was going for best face :)
 

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#3 ·
I've also done something very similar with a skil saw. The skil saw with a straight edge works well for pieces that are larger and thicker and to heavy for 1 man on the table saw.

Stuff like this shows with a little ingenuity you don't need a shop full of equipment, although once you get the shop full of equipment, its hard to go back :)
 
#8 ·
On my woodworking website, I have free plans to make a rip sled:

http://prowoodworkingtips.com/Table_Saw_Rip_Sled_Plan.html

Same results, and simple to use.

Tabe saws are a large part of the conversation with my ezee-feed business. Many of the table saw injuries I hear about are due to the lack of a splitter or riving knife. Even to guys who have been doing it for thirty years! I added that last part because that's the answer I usually hear when I mention it…I've been doing this for thirty years without a problem…that could and does change in a split second.

Lee
 
#9 ·
Sprucegum,

Necessity is the Mother of Invention and it's clear that you have a firm grip on that, and it worked just fine.

Here is a great shop made jig for either a Router or a Circular Saw to keep your edges straight and true.

Please refer to renners post #14 at this link for a guide that you may be interested in and it is quite durable.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/37913

Best Regards.
Work Safely and have Fun. - Grandpa Len.
 
#11 ·
What I like about this technique vs most techniques that address only the edge of a board and not the face, is that any deviation from a perfect 90° edge is moot point, since the deviation is the same for both edges. I've seen a similar idea done with a router, but never a TS. It should work fine if you can keep both boards together throughout the whole cut. Nice idea!
 
#17 · (Edited by Moderator)
Ben I like to think I invented it perhaps that is why you have never heard of it. The reality is old timers have been kerfing in boards and planks with their hand saws since the saw was invented. I just use a power saw. Thanks for the compliment never in my life until now have I been accused of being brilliant.
 
#18 ·
David Dean I am not sure why you are pocket hole screwing your joined boards together unless you are doing it as a clamping method. A pretty darn good idea though a bit expensive and time consuming if that's the case. That said it takes plenty of effort and a lot of clamps and cauls to get a good glue-up using traditional methods. It's always rewarding to see new ideas. I will have to give your method a try. Thanks for posting.
 
#19 ·
David That is a nice looking sled and it should do a great job of making your boards strait but if you go one more step and temporarily fasten the boards together and run a saw kerf down the crack you will get a perfect glue joint that requires fewer clamps and no pocket screws. I must admit I have never thought to use pocket screws to edge join boards. I don't know why not I use them for everything else.
 
#20 ·
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Thank you but Im not a jointer or hand planer man myself the sled works great and I have been useing this method for over 5 years I use a Diadlo 60T Combination blade and dont take this the wrong way but who has time for the Kerf thing that was my grandfather's way. It take's 10 min on the sled 10 min on my K-2 for the pocket holes and 10 min on glue up and all I need is one bar clamp and a kreg 6" clamp and about 10 scerws and Im done in 30 min what my grandfather older wood works dont under stand is that poeple what there furniture now and dont what to wait for it to be buildt and it seem's there is alway some one who is always one step ahead of you.
 

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#21 ·
David,

"...and Im done in 30 min."

Very progressive 'Outside the Box' thinking.
I've used 23 ga. pinners for years to move more quickly through glue-ups instead of clamps, ...never dawned on me to try your "Tips & Tricks". Certainly won't hurt to assist the glue joint's strength.

Kudos, thanks for sharing.

Work Safely and have Fun.
 
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