Reply by jontro

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Posted on Designing a recessed folding table for cabinet.

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5 posts in 1988 days

#1 posted 01-16-2013 11:35 AM

Thx for getting back to me Dan…
In answer to #1, the reason for the 48” table was that’s about half the length of our dining table and the Ms. Scrapbooker can easily take that over for a session or two. Since the height of the area where the table would be folding into is about 4” shorter then the tabletop height when open (given the height of the casters and base panel), that won’t leave much work space.
My main purpose in keeping the table section together, in some fashion, is to minimize the thickness and therefore not add to the overall depth of the cabinet any more than I have to.

I’ve included a sketch of a pivoting arm arrangement that I’m currently considering and working on. The problem is trying to minimize the lifting height as the outer table section is collapsed back on top of the inner section.

In the first example the distance between the pins will be around 11” to get a folded offset of 22”. The problem as mentioned above is this will require a maximum lift height of nearly 11” and just doesn’t cut it. The lower example has a 2:1 offset, still needing an 11” pivot rod an but produces the need the same amount of lift.
I’m experimenting right now with a slide-type linkage that might eliminate such a severe lifting need and also working on a method of strengthing the opened while maintaining a minimum thickness. More to follow on this.

Also, here the plans that I’ve worked up for the center unit where the table will fold into:

If you can make it out…the legs will fit into the cutout in the bottom portion of the lower storage area (left side view); the extra thickness in the side is to accommodate both tabletop sections and the outer wings as they will fold into and be covered by this center section.

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