Reply by Mike_D_S

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Posted on Advice on correcting warped vanity top?

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464 posts in 2179 days

#1 posted 01-10-2013 11:56 AM

@pintodeluze – I’ve already got the top sides mounted and they’re held flat by the pocket hole mounting. It’s really just the center I was struggling with. I’ve routered out the center of the tops 3/8” deep for the mirror to sit in a recess and cut a picture frame to go around the mirror out of 3/4” crossgrain which I’m going to glue in solid in the recess to keep the top flat. Hopefully this will handle it. If this doesn’t work I’ve already decided to essentially take the center sections to a local shop and get them to plane the bottoms down until the tops are 1/4” or 3/16” thickness and then I’ll build a frame for underneath and use it like a big veneer. That way I can keep the grain continuous on the top when it’s closed but can cure the induced warp.


Well, I wouldn’t call them plans exactly. The plans are basically just notes I sketched out on graph paper after my wife showed me a picture of a vanity she liked online. Basically I decided on a height, then the width and depth of the top. Allow for 1/2” hangover on the sides/front and flush in the back defines the width/depth of the frame. Plan to split the top basically 32.5/35/32.5 (this is change from the original drawing which was more of a 30/40/30 split as I didn’t like the way it laid out once I had the top glued up, the proportions felt wrong). The height of the drawers are driven by maintaining a reasonable amount of clearance for someone to sit under it so call it the “lap height” allowance.

The image below is the original drawing and while I’ve done several tweaks to the actual measurements, most of those were primarily driven by changing the split ratio of the top. The top is just a simple glue up (in hind sight I would have made sure of I was more careful selecting boards for the top to get more quarter sawn grain to reduce the warpage issue I’m having now). The frame is simple mortise and tenon with glue/screw for the basin front and sides from the back and bottom of the front with cherry dowel plugs to hide the screws. The top sides are pocket holed and glued.

I started the plan thinking to do basic lock rabbet type drawers with cherry false fronts, but aftere making a test drawer I canned that idea and went with dovetail drawers instead. I have a cheapo dovetail jig which the guy I bought my table saw from just gave me. It takes a while to set up accurately but if you’re careful it does a fairly decent job. As a first attempt I’m pretty happy with my dovetails and the contrasting pins/tails on the front make a nice look. Runners and guides for the drawers aren’t shown on the plan, but I’ll add bottomt runners on the frame to support the side of each drawer and the center guide on the bottom of each drawer to keep it centered.

Basically as i moved through the project I tweaked and adjusted as necessary to make things fit. Other than the stupid warped top which I could still fix if I wasn’t so hung up keeping the continous grain the project isn’t all that difficult.


-- No honey, that's not new, I've had that forever......

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