I just bought a Delta 37-190 6" jointer off of Craigslist. The previous owner didn't use it much at all and it had been in storage for a very long time when he decided to sell it. There is a lot of surface rust, etc., but nothing a little elbow grease won't take care of. The problem is with the motor. While it does turn on it runs very slow and eventually trips the circuit and shuts down.
I'm not an electrician and have very little knowledge and/or experience in trouble shooting electric motors. So…..anybody with experience out there that may be able to identify my problem here and ideas on how to fix it?
Sounds like the centrifugal switch is not working right. It is a switch that allows current to the starting windings until up to speed, then only the running windings are active. I think in you case the switch is stuck open. Suggest opening motor and cleaning the switch mechanics and the contacts. Hopefully the windings aren't burnt. Do you smell a kinda smoke/toxic near motor?
I had a similar problem with an older Atlas TS I was bringing back up to snuff. A very informative and helpful gent from another site tried to walk me through the process to figure out the problem. But I too am electrically challanged. So, after pricing new 1 hp motors and realizing how much a good / new motor costs, I put a "I'm looking for" add up on Craigslist, and was fortunate enough to get a 1 hp motor for $40.00. Looked almost new and the old Atlas is ripping wood once again )
This centrifical swith Burt is referring to is often just inside the motor cap opposite the shaft end of the motor. Unplug the motor, take the bolts out and see if you can gently get the end off. There should be some weights and contacts there. If the motor is not totally enclosed it might have wood chips or sawdust in a contact. Clean everything out and reassemble. Sometimes the grease hardens in the bearings. Try turning the bearings while you are there. I have had motors sit for years and not just jump into action when I turned them on. If I can get them started I let them run for awhile. 30 minutes or so. This helps soften things up.
I don't think that will be a 220V motor but you might look at it and see what the data plate says. Never know what some other guy might have done. Checking the end on the cord won't help because you don't what some other guy might have done.
I just got the machine from my car and in to my shop. And…..the motor purrs like a kitten. The guy selling it must not have a good flow of electricity to the outlet he used or something…...oh well, his loss my gain. I've got an upgraded jointer now for only $50 and some elbow grease work ahead of me.
I'll have to create a blog on the restoration/refurbishing of this when I get started.
Does it spin easily by hand ?
I've had them chuck full of sawdust as well as the grease turned to stone from sitting around for years.
If the motor does turn easily , then I would trouble shoot the electrical side of it as suggested above : )
I'd guess that in the trip, you might have broken loose some debris that was keeping the switch from operating correctly. Burt is right, the start switch was staying open. If it was a capacitor, it would not have turned at all.
You broke loose the switch on the trip.
@ Dusty; yes it did move freely by hand which is why I suspected electrical/motor problems. I'll be sure to open the motor case up and at a minimum blow some air through there and look for issues.
He was asking $100, I got it for $50. I suspect he was someone who wanted to get in to woodworking, bought a few tools, then lost interest. The knives didn't even look like they have dulled at all. But at the same time he didn't protect it from moisture while it was in storage.
congrats on a gloatable buy. $50 for a 6" jointer is a gloatable deal in my neck of the woods. but no pics, didn't happen. so where's a pic or two of this really good deal?
Good for you then. Keep your eyes open for a blog that I'm going to write up on this. Just finished getting rid of all the surface rust on the machined surfaces and loosing rusted set screws, and sharpening the knives.
Check the wiring to make sure it isn't wired for 220.
I don't know much electrical theory, but I do know a motor
wired at 220v can start and run at 115v. I've done it.
It won't run well under load though.
Also, take the belt off and let it run and see if that's
a problem. A motor that has set idle for awhile
often improves from running w/ no load for
awhile.
Thanks Loren but I mentioned in an earlier post that the day after I brought it home and plugged it in in my shop it seems to be working fine. Must of been the previous owner's power source.
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