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Reply by Mark Kornell

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Posted on Lessons Learned & Outstanding Questions on Sharpening

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Mark Kornell

482 posts in 1165 days


#1 posted 603 days ago

I had that issue when I first used the Mk II jig, too, and I eventually figured out it was how I clamped the blade or chisel in place. I’d first tighten one side, and then really lock it down on the other. Seems that would put uneven pressure on the blade, causing the jig to distort slightly and resulted in a small skew in the bevel.

I found that I got better results by holding the clamping bar flat to the back of the blade, tightening the screws until they both just touched the bar, and then further tightening both screws in small and equal increments. It locks the blade down evenly, and less overall force is needed to adequately secure it.

And to answer another part of your post – I was taught how to use a grinder to establish the bevel, which then allows one to ditch the jig and use the stones freehand (hollow grind/freehand hone). Much faster, but takes practice to get good at grinding – once you have that down, the freehand honing is easy.

The end result is the same, so I wont say one method is better than another. The goal is to get the back and bevel as flat as possible, so they meet at a very sharp point. I just find that using the jig makes things slower.

-- Mark Kornell, Kornell Wood Design


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