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Posted on Rockwell/Delta Model 10 TS

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395 posts in 608 days


#1 posted 604 days ago

I have had several Delta Contractor’s table saws that I have bought, cleaned up, and sold, and I currently have one in my shop that I bought new in 1995. Like Scott says, the Delta T2 fence is probably the best bang for the buck in a fence and should be fairly easy to bolt up to your saw. A Freud 24 tooth ripping blade would be my choice for a blade, and there are alot of other fairly inexpensive upgrades that you can do the saw as well that I highly recommend. Adding a set of machined pulleys and a Fenner Drives PowerTwist link belt will help the saw run noticeably smoother, adding a large paddle switch under the fence rail is more convieniant to reach, and the old location of the tiny toggle switch and electrical box tend to fill up with dust. Plugging the saw into a 20 amp, 120V dedicated circuit, or switching the motor over for a 15 amp, 240 V circuit will give the motor the proper electrical power that it needs. Limit the size that you use for an extension cord to the proper gauge for the length used. Also a coat of Johnson’s or Minwax paste Hardwood floor wax occasionally will preserve the cast iron top. If you do all of these things you will have a saw that could be the last saw that you’ll ever need, assuming that the arbor bearings are good, and that the arbor threads don’t have alot of wear from blade changes. The American made Delta Contractor’s table saws are some of the best, if not the best Contractor’s saws made. A riving knife is not adaptable to the older saws because of the mechanics of the saw. The riving knife is fairly new to the United States market and requires a different internal mechanism which raises and lowers with the blade, these older saws where designed for a fixed splitter. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask. I also specialize in dust collection for these saws should you ever get to that point.


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