Reply by mbs

JJ, Your orientation question is correct. The router is in the blue box. the sags in the table is between the two angle irons where the blue box is. I need to push the top up, from the bottom, between the angle iron.

Several of you recommended shims and I tried them. They worked well to take out the drop directly above the angle iron. I still had the drop between the angle iron. I put put another pc of angle perpendicular to the existing pieces. I shimmed it in the center too which helped. The base plate of the router isn’t perfectly flat so with all the improvements I still can slide .0025” feeler gage is some areas which is probably good enough.

A1Jim. You’re probably wondering why I’m picking fly shit out of pepper. I would probably post a similar question because most of my work doesn’t require that much accuracy. I bought this router table several years ago. It was so out of level it was unusable. I worked on it a little bit and made some improvements but when I would run a pc of wood across it I would get a stutter step in the wood. I finally decided to level it up and the first project I want to try it on is the leg and seat joints of a rocking chair. I like to have a tight joint on the rocking chair seat joints. First I cut the seat joints then I slowly sneak up on leg joints until they fit. Towards the end I’m only taking off a few thousandths. So, I’m looking for very square, repeatable setups.

By the way, on the first rocker I made used the sawstop to cut the joints with a cross cut sled and a home made screw adjuster clamped to the sled which was the mechanism for micro adjustments. I still had quite a bit of hand sanding to get the joint to fit right. I could use the saw again but I want to try the router table since it has a fence with a micro adjuster. I’m hoping for less hand sanding. If you have the tool you may as well use them, right?

Thanks for all your ideas. Now I need to try it out.

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.