I'm making some beehive boxes and looking for a way to create a hand-hold like in the top box in the image below. It's pretty important that the top edge is flat because these boxes can get heavy, up to 100 lbs for a 10-frame deep full of honey. Combined with gloves covered in propolis and lots of possibly grumpy stinging insects flying around you don't want to fight to hang on to the box. The bottom also needs to be tapered so that water doesn't pool up on the flat spot and diminish the service life of the box. I'm hoping to do this with common woodshop tools but don't have any problem making jigs and fixtures to get the job done. It also needs to be pretty fast. Each box has hand-holds on all for sides and I'm planning on making 50 boxes this winter. What do the woodworking experts have to say?
When you start selling beewax, let me know a price.
I want some.
I believe in using that stuff on anything.
Since the only local beekeeper aorund here died, I haven't been able to find any pure beeswax.
My kids (4, 5, 5, 9) all come help with the bees, only the youngest gets a little nervous when they first get opened but she got a be tangled in her hair once too.
A cove bit and the workpiece upside down on the table with stops for the desired width, makes a very close cut to that and it can be made as wide as desired.
I'm with oldnovice - cove bit in a router table is the safest and quickest way to create this hold.
The tablesaw and circular saw ideas scare the bee juice out of me. If I saw anyone doing that type of operation I would be standing as far from them as I could get.
I'm in agreement as well, saw blades are meant to cut one direction, pushing work in the same direction as the axis of rotation just seems like disaster waiting to happen.
The most often asked question on making your own beekeeping equipment: How do you make professional looking hand holds? The answer appeared in the July issue of Bee Culture. You make a jig that holds the tops and sides over the table saw blade. Taking multiple light cuts, tilt the arbor while the blade spins, raise the blade a little more and return to the 90 degree position. Raise the blade again and tilt. Repeat until done. You are cutting sideways, using the saw's set to remove the wood. The result is superior to the commercial molding cutters because there is no tear out. The disadvantage: it takes almost a minute to cut one hand hold.
I like the table saw method. I would do the jig and blade tilt at 14 degrees instead of 15 degree tilt and jig he made. Then make another jig for a router with a 14 degree dovetail bit that would just be used to flatten the handle section of the cut. Should go very fast. I know it is 2 operations, but would be safe and quick.
Oh, for that matter, it would be easier to do on a radial
arm saw.
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