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Why are my board lengths different?

3K views 20 replies 18 participants last post by  Dusty56 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I've been working with a tape measure that stays put when you pull it out. That's it's only redeeming feature.
I compared it to my shop fox and my new new FastCap tape and found this.

Ruler Tape measure Rectangle Office ruler Wood


Ruler Wood Rectangle Tool Bumper


The tape on the bottom is the offender.
Tool Wood Gas Circle Watch


I took the new FastCap and put it on the anvil of my vice and used a nail set to compress the three rivits with the claw pushed up against the end of the tape. It's very tight and won't move now. The other tape is fine if it is the only one you use, but I use the shop fox just as much, so no wonder my cuts need a little bit extra taken off.

Not many of you probably use the tapes that stay out and you press a button to release them. It always pulls on the tape to retract just enough to create that gap at the end. This is why for the tape I use primarily on my miter saw I peen those rivets tight. Because when I go to the bench, I'll use the shop fox as much as possible from that point on. The boards come out perfect that way.
 

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#2 ·
The main reason those rivets are loose: When you go to measure an inside dimension, the clip gets push in. When you measure the outside dimension, the clip will slide out. The movement is so allow for the thickness of the clip. Now, with the clip immobile by peaning the rivets tight, one has to allow for the thickness of the clip.

Measure in-between to items, like a door jamb, say 35-3/4" wide. Now measure the door that goes into the opening with that same tape measure. Hmmm, what does it read? Fit the door using this same tape readings. Door will be a might loose in the fit, by the thickness of that little loose clip.

Tip: When I measure with a tape measure, I use the one inch mark instead of the clip. Subtract the 1" and there is the length. I've seen quite a few tape measures over the years, and some were "tightened" down, some had the clip bent to make a more secure grip on items (might have been bent the other way at one time, as well??) Rivets are loose for a reason.
 
#5 ·
Bandit. this tape will always try and retract just a bit which keeps it in constant gap mode. You have to push it to make an accurate measure. Mostly what I'll be using the fastcap for is the miter saw, so it'll work out.

What I'd really like is a solid ruler like the shop fox only expandable with a slide to extend it to about 4'. That would be nice. Is there anything like that out there?
 
#6 ·
tapes are tapes! for rough construction that clip is "close enough". but on finish boards I use the 10" mark as my "zero" (the math is easier!!!). I never use the 1" mark because there is still too much "junk" in the way with the tab and associated rivets.
 
#7 ·
Not uncommon. I think it was on an episode of "How It's Made" where they put all the new tapes on a long bed and compared them to a known master, like you did. The good ones would be sold as a higher grade, and the bad ones as the cheapies.
 
#8 ·
I agree with Art. I always use the same tape from beginning to the end of a project. I also set up stop blocks to be sure all pieces are exactly the same length like on box sides for instance. I set up a stop block once the dimension is established for all cuts of that length so they are all exactly the same.
 
#9 ·
+3 on using the same measuring device for a project from start to finish. Story sticks are useful also. Put your measurements on a piece of mdf or plywood, then use that piece to measure all parts of the project. The slop in a tape meaure is also why some folks prefer a wooden rule.
 
#10 ·
+4 on using the same measuring device for a project from start to finish (although for fine work I would still not rely on the tab). As for "story sticks", on multiple pieces, I always start with one and mark it…at the miter saw, that goes on top of the next piece. drop the non-running blade onto the stack for alignment, cut away (but save that top piece for the next cut).
 
#11 ·
Hey Russell your tape isn't the only thing giving you trouble with accurate markups. Go over to the office
supply and get a good pencil sharpner. The best measuring tools in the world are useless with a pencil that
that looks like that. It's all fun now, isn't it?
 
#12 · (Edited by Moderator)
Depending on what I'm doing, I use steel carpenter's square, a 12" steel rule that is part of my combo square, and a wall board T-square. As mentioned, tapes will get me a rough measure, but for accuracy I use the metal rules. The tapes make me crazy as they slide all over, don't lie flat on the wood, and are cumbersome to use for anything 'cept measuring 2×4s.
 
#14 ·
The 'Right tool for the task at hand'

Tape measures;
I have good quality 30 ft. and 100 ft. Tape Measures, which I use for construction projects. These will keep you honest when building a deck or cutting plywood for sub-flooring and dimentional lumber.

Rulers;
I have good quality 12", 24", 36" rulers and a 6 ft. folding rule which I use in the shop for projects. There is no guess work as to where 'zero' is on a good ruler.

I don't use my Dovetail saw for cutting 2×10s and I don't use my Circular saw for cutting out Jewelry boxes.

If you take a ruler and measure your tape measure and peen the rivits tight you have created the same measuring implement as 'hook' ruler which can be used to stabilize the ruler by hooking the hook, at the zero end of the ruler, on the edge of the workpiece and take all your measurements in this fashion as 'outside' measurements, but then that tape will not give you an accurate inside measurement.
I believe you stated that you are aware of this limitation, but if it works for you and you can keep your tapes sorted for their 'Russell' disigned purpose then I see nothing wrong with your theory, my friend. :)

Work Safely and have Fun. - Grandpa Len.
 
#16 ·
Rule of thumb: Always use the same tape for one project.. i've got a few tapes and none are 100% compared to the other.. as long as you use the same one all the way around, you'll be fine.
 
#17 ·
These posts point out one of the reasons for my disdain of Biesemeyer table saw fences. It's pretty hard to set the fence with a rule other than what's on the fence rail and using the rule on the fence rail locks you into using multiple rules. People keep trying to tell me about the "accuracy" of Biesemeyer fences but I always know they've never actually tried to set one with a rule or tape measure.
 
#18 ·
I agree with a lot of what most have said in these replies. WoodyG did mention "get a good pencil sharpener." ANY pencil works great for general markings. Specially for rough cuts.

Although he maybe correct, I have had measuring problems with tape measures as well. I use the same tape measure from start to finish is probably "as close as you can get." However, I have noticed more accuracy using a very fine tipped mechanical pencil. Making large curves for concrete forms (sidewalks etc) i use the 10" mark like teejk mentioned "tapes are tapes! for rough construction that clip is "close enough". but on finish boards I use the 10" mark as my "zero" (the math is easier!!!). I never use the 1" mark because there is still too much "junk" in the way with the tab and associated rivets."

However when making curved lines/cuts/sets I also use the 1" marks throughout the entire tape while also making my line marks with a fine tipped mechanical pencil for precision marking.

I also use colored pencils and colored lead for my mechanical pencils to help with markings so i don't get confused making my cuts.

hope this helps!
 
#19 ·
Like others have said use the same measuring device through out…

If you measured with a ruler use the same ruler to set up your cutting device (table saw, etc) and if you used a tape measure use the sane tape measure to set up the cutting device.

GrandpaLen Said:
I don't use my Circular saw for cutting out Jewelry boxes.


Ahhh this is where I am going wrong… lol

 
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