LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner
13K views 31 replies 10 participants last post by  dannmarks 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Okay for those of you who helped me on original post looking for a saw thank you. Now that I have this baby though I am having to wait awhile before I can get garage rewired by electrician friend of mine….that's okay though, because i have ALOT to do. At $450 I think my G1023 is a steal….but it does need some love as I knew it would.

First the saw:

Wood Machine tool Gas Thickness planer Machine

Wood Gas Machine Machine tool Composite material


It doesn't actually give model number anywhere on it, the only info is on motor:
Font Gas Handwriting Wood Motor vehicle

It says it was built in 1989…( I cut picture due to serial number, a habit from firearm forums where posting serials is a no no, it may not be as big of an issue with tools, but I'm used to not showing em)

This is the 2hp Air Filtration system I bought at the same time for $200, as it seemed a good deal. It is misisng switch though he just turned it on and off with shop breaker box, I have no such dedicated breaker for garage though so I'll have to find another hook up method to turn on and off without having to unplug it everytime.
Automotive tire Car Motor vehicle Vehicle Bumper


My issues:

1. The Surface, the simple…...or at least I hope it to be simple reconditioning the table…
Brush Hand tool Tool Wood Gas


My plan…
Gas Wood Metal Flooring Machine

From various places I have read to first wipe it down and scrub with the scotchbrite pads with Mineral Oil as a Lubricant, and once i finish that, to use paste wax all over and let sit awhile, and then buff it out with cloth.. (what no top coat?) Anyway that is my plan…...thoughts? Suggestions? Also would using an orbital sander with the scotch-brite pads be too much? There's no real pitting that I can see this is mostly just to prevent further oxidation, for protection….and because I love it so…..

2. Belts….
Automotive tire Wood Gas Tints and shades Automotive wheel system


Reading online further confused me didn't realize how many options there were, so please give me your thoughts on which type of belts, specific brand and good place to buy also, as well as why those belts? Twisted? Linked? Should I replace Pully's? Any advice on this would be appreciated. This Grizzly TS is mightier than I R knowledgable.

3. The Fence.....I was originally going to replace fence, but honestly the cast gut of fence is nice and heavy and locks down well…it's just the facing needs replacing….
Wood Asphalt Building material Hardwood Flooring


I am thinking of ordering this and removing plywood all together… 3/4" X 4"X 48 " Sheet
http://www.ptreeusa.com/uhmwproducts.htm
Stairs Automotive design Rectangle Wood Tints and shades

I would of course sink screws but it would leave small holes….

What do you think? Better option? Reason for keeping plywood backing and using thinner material? I really know nothing just looking around at options but this would make it more like modern fences I see.

4. Gears, Trunnions etc….

When I got it it was full of dust….guess that Air Filtration system didn't work all that well…or at least not as he had it set up.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive fuel system Vehicle Gas


Cleaned up….
Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive tire Gas Wood


Okay there's a decent amount of oxidation but the wheels turn whithout any major hang up, I suppose they could be smoother but not by much.
Gear Gas Auto part Machine Engineering


Truthfully I hate to monkey with this too much as I am not sure I can get it back right….does it need cleaning? Can I just lube it up a bit and go? Or do I need to clean and oil? do I need to get oxidation off? best way without disassembling? Any advice here….I have never worked on anything on this level….closes thing was a cast smoker and I wasn't afraid to go crazy there with navel Jelly and a sander as well.. This is something I don't want to mess up.

5. Splitter. This saw also has NO splitter or riving knife. The professional carpenter we hired for some work in nursery scoffs at this as he hates them and says he just has table waxed and pushes quickly, and it will either go through or knock him out and he hasn't been knocked out yet….I am not quite as experienced though and have memories of that little accident I had in my dad's garge and impaling a piece of wood in the wall and that was with a smaller tabletop craftsman…... so best options? Why?

I was thinking of going here:
http://theborkstore.com/main.sc

And getting the Bork

http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/1485

6. Blades

Okay in my first post I got a great deal of info on this from "knotscott"
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/37491

Thank you…. I think currently I may just get a Inifinity like he mentioned..
http://www.infinitytools.com/10-x-40T-Super-General-Saw-Blade/productinfo/010-044/

it's $99 on their site and Amazon is sold out…...is there an equal option at lower price? Also anywhere better to buy? Would I do better to have a couple of cheaper blades in different configs? If I pony up a for this one it will be awhile before I could get another.

7. Miter Guage, Blade guard, Dust collection? Trap Door?

The Miter Guage is missing, I am currently planning on getting replacement cast iron one from Grizzly unless someone can give me a good reason to get another…...might as well get what I want now since I don't have one for it….

Plastic guard above blade? Useful? Not sure if one comes for Bork? Also have seen set up with seperate dust collection knozzle there….worth setting up? or in the way?

Trap Door is missing. The previous owner had just put the air filtration tube inside hole. Which I imagine did not make a really good seal and remove dust well…..is there a trap door made to fit tube tightly? Where can i get one?

8. What is the newbie forgetting?

What have I not looked at that I should be looking at? I got time, no 220 wire yet, and weeks before I will have one…...how do I get my baby ship shape? Any other pics that would help? Remember while I have done some work in dad's garage growing up, and certainly read quite a bit in books and online before embaring on this, I am a real newb….don't for a moment count on me already knowing much of anything! :D

Thanks all!!!

(BTW I do realize I still need to make measurements and adjustments, but until I get the above taken care of seems sort of ahead of the game…)
 

Attachments

See less See more
25
#2 ·
I wouldn't worry too much about the thin, even, layer of oxidation on some of the parts under the table. You can clean them up since you have time, but it's really not hurting anything.

If you want to get several blades, go on eBay and buy some Onsrud blades. I have a few and usually get them for around $22 to $25 each. They are easily comparable to the blades you spend $100 or $120 for.

I'm not familiar with all of the Grizzly models, but for dust collection, that little trap door is the least of your worries. You need a motor cover. :)

Get an after-market miter gauge. The ones that come with the saw typically aren't very good.

You can probably get the belts at an automotive store, BUT make sue you tell them you need a MATCHED SET for a multibelt drive. The numbers on the belts will probably give you the information you need as far as what PROFILE you need. The "V" in those v-belts may be a slightly different shape from the "V" in an automotive belt. The slant on the sides of the belt have to match the slant on the pulleys. The fact that I can read the writing on your current belts suggests they may not be all that old. Get the information on what the CORRECT belts are, but I'd move replacing all the belts a little lower on the list of things to do.
 
#3 · (Edited by Moderator)
A lot of this is subjective, but here are my thoughts:

1. Your current plan looks good and should work, but if you get impatient, switching to fine sandpaper and progressing through finer grits will be faster than a Scotchbrite.

2. Those belts actually look pretty good….it's possible they've been replaced before. Now's a good time to do it, but you find that you don't NEED to right away unless they've taken a set and thump/vibrate too much.

3. Good.

4. Don't really know what's "best", but I'd likely just use a non-dust attracting lube like your paste wax applied with a tooth brush, or spray on white lithium grease that dries like wax. Adding grease or wet lubes can attract saw dust.

5. A splitter or riving knife is one of the most effective safety devices you can use IMO. I really like my BORK and initially thought it would fit your saw, but after seeing the pic, it might be old enough that I'm no longer positive it well. The pic you showed of the swingarm doesn't look like it leaves a place to fasten the BORK. My advice is to send the pic to Bob Ross at theborkstore.com, and check with him….I've found him to be pretty responsive to questions and input in general (you can link this discussion for him to view the pic, or ask for his email). The MJ Splitter is a less expensive, less elegant alternative, but would require you to make a new insert or two. Others may have insights on other splitters that will fit, and you might even find a stock guard somewhere.


6. Which way to go with saw blades is also subjective, and is really a personal decision. The Infinity Super General that you linked to is the cleanest cutting of the 40T general purpose blades I've used to date, but that doesn't necessarily make it the best overall choice for your needs. The Freud Fusion is the most similar of the blades I'm familiar with, and you might find it for $10 or $20 less, but there are no real big savings there. Using high quality separate dedicated blades will each do a better job of their respective tasks, but require blade changes for each task, and require a separate cash outlay for each blade. The Onsrud blades were a great deal, but the selection has dwindled a lot. Going with something like the Delta 35-7657 for < $30 shipped or the Onsrud 30T Glue Line Ripper should open up funds to add something like a nice 80T fine crosscut/ply Hi-ATB or ATB blade (ie: Infinity 010-080, Freud LU80, CMT 210.080.10 (this is a pretty nice deal on an 80T Freud LU85 ATB blade @ $58 shipped…normally ~ $90, only 2 available). But as stated, it really depends on what you'll be cutting.

7. The Incra V27 is one of the best values in good aftermarket miter gauges. You'll want to buy a crosscut fence for it, or build one from scraps (easy). Adding a motor door will help the dust collection a lot…..buy or build.

You've given this a lot of thought, and are definitely on the right track IMO.
 
#4 ·
(Charlie said, "I'm not familiar with all of the Grizzly models, but for dust collection, that little trap door is the least of your worries. You need a motor cover. :)")

LOL Yeah well see this is what happens when you have no actual time to touch or caress your saw and instead are just thinking about it while slaving in your cubicle all day…..as soon as I got the e-mail forward of your response, I was like I really am sort of a dolt. I kinda was forgetting about the missing wall I was so preoccupied about the hole in the door so to speak.

Hmm so is this a good idea to make an insert for motor side? This is more my thing:) Computer Case modding I know….!Would there be advers effect though of sealing cabinet? and then using filtration system to pull all air? That likely would include pulling air THROUGH the motor though I'm worried that could be an issue… Is this done?

Also on belts I need to use better camera then Iphone I was hoping it would show but it didn't. Yes you can see lettering on belts but you can't see they literally have misisng chunks out of them. They do have to go. Personally I would rather upgrade the belts if possible if they can retain the same performance and not strain motor is there something a bit tougher? I read somehwere cogged belts are better? Are not all the belths "cogged"? Also Ho do I figure out my belt size does not say in G1023 manual I pulled from Grizzly site.

It's easy to give it lots of thought when thinking about your saw is about all your able to do. Now that I got it I been so busy I can't even play with it. :(

Keep it coming!!! I am making notes of everything!
 
#8 ·
That's a nice looking saw.Both stable and heavy enough for what you put to it.I personally woluld do what I call (give the saw it's birthday present) and spend a little cash and make it like new.Those plastic strips for the fence can be bought at least here in the uk from catering suppliers used as cutting boards a while back I have a bit of it but too far away to be of any use to you.Have fun Alistair
 
#9 ·
knotscott…you should recognize that arbor bracket below the BORK picture. It's a Craftsman 22114. I don't know where the pic came from but I took it…lol.

The arbor brackets on the 1023 series saws are very similar to those found on Unisaws.
 
#10 · (Edited by Moderator)
That pic was from the Bork website seemed to be example of fitting it on? I guess I linked wrong one. I removed it as I think it was an example of how it could not fit on some saws…heh. Sorry for confusion….Anyway finally may get to work on cleaning tomorrow. Cherry Kool-Aid and Vinager I think is my choice…. :D
 
#11 ·
The project pushes ahead…...question Which mobile base system do you guys recommend? I know in past the Delta one was mentioned. Is this any better then base system from Grizzly? Are there any others I should look at? I have a cramped garage, I need mobility!!!!
 
#12 ·
I just bought the same saw, well put a deposit on it until i can get a truck on Friday … how do you like it so far? Mine looks to be around the same vintage and priced similarly. As far as mobility, id consider buying some castors and building your own base.
 
#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
(TIME SENSITIVE!)

Okay well, I have to embarrassingly say, that in the last 6 months I have not done much more then when i last posted. I was not wired for 220, as it turns out I need to replace service pannelin house, and main box outside as well….also I have had a heck of a year with work and baby…..but I should be wired up by next week in what is pretty much rewiring my entire house. So I'm off to finish up restoration of saw this weekend. Turns out not all the gunk I still had in saw was saw dust. Apparently previous owner had a colony of dirt dobbers in his shop or the saw was left outside…..either way the trunnions work much better without muddy bug cement over everything…..

The motor rotates very free and spins a bit when I turn it and let go….the arbor turns freely but not as smooth as I would like, and I have decided there's no better time then now to replace arbor bearings as it just feels like it's less then what I would like turning. There's n orough spots or rubbing but it certainly doesn't keep spinning no matter how hard I spin em…and it may just need cleaning up but…I'm gonna get new bearings…

I am not willing to wait for ordering them however, I'd like to do this, THIS weekend. Plus I don't really have a bearings puller or press and know I'll have a really hard time getting to inner bearings. Though saw a neat video that just used rubber mallet, block of wood with hole, and a old copper pipe to slip around and use to hammer wood down on bearing…... I already have the arbor out of saw completely, but I have thus far been unsuccessful at removing the nut on back end to even get to bearings. Having a 1" wrench would help as a cresent just doesn't work. and I have generous amount of break free working on it now, as I sweated for quite awhile trying to get it off. Any tips on this? Found a how to video for a old delta restoration and this is pretty much identical…..but while he just does a simple twist mine won't come off for nothing. Any tips?

Also where might I look to get decent bearings and pref a place that could use press on installing on a Saturday? Or am I dreaming? If I have to wait till week and take a long lunch I can, but I really would like to have this baby to go before monday as that is when electricians may be coming.

Also I have the UHMW panel from peachtree, and thoughts on best way to mount? just counter sink and mount on and test for needed shims?

I decided to get that Super General 40T when it was on sale on Amazon, but realized now I got the .97 thin kerf insteadof 125….am I asking for trouble to use this for all purpose? I don't plan on cutting much of anything thicker then 3-4 inches? It's too late to return it now, but will having a thin kerf be an issue?

I have no splitter, but plan on buying the MJ Splitter ASAP, I am going to hold off on bork for now, but long term I really think I might prefer it.

So anyway where can I get arbor bearings, and better yet a place that may have a press for installing inner one.

How the heck do I get this end nut off?

Is there a particular bearing to look for as far as make?

Also on my to do list is a motor cover, (any suggestions? or just build one?)

Last I got some amazing results cleaning top of table saw with the citric acid pwder viniger mixture I made….that said I was sort of hurried and while I removed most all the rust I missed a couple of spots, and there was sort of dark areas I left on before I dried and waxed finished with that paste wax…...say I am OCD enough that it bugs me and I want to redo it completely…...what is best way to clean off paste wax and get bax to raw castiron? minieral spirits?

I'll post more pics soon…...(sigh) I love the smell of breakfree on a Friday night…..
 
#15 ·
If that Super General is still new in the package, Infinity just might let you exchange it if you pay shipping. Send them a note explaining your story and ask….I've found them to be pretty nice folks. If not, there shouldn't be issue using the thin kerf blades unless you install a full kerf splitter….a splitter that's wider than the blade will cause the workpiece to hang up mid-cut. The TK blades are a bit more prone to flexing, but a blade of that caliber shouldn't have too much of a problem if the saw spins true unless you're cutting something like mesquite.

Good luck!
 
#16 ·
I essentially did the same thing you are doing with a Grizzly 1023Z. It purchased it of of Craigslist and have spent the last year getting it up to what I wanted. It was rusty and not set up very well. Here is what I have done so far:

1. Sanded the top and gave it a good coating of Boeshield to protect it. That was a messy job but got all of the rust cleaned off.

2. Took the top off and cleaned the inside out. It was still full of cosmoline and wood dust and the cranks would not work up or down. Lubed the works with a drying lube (can't remember the name). Replaced the belts with the link belts as the belts were wore in an hopped like mad.

3. Leveled the tops so the wings were even with the main surface. This was pain as they are heavy. Made the miter slot parallel to the blade. Replaced the fence with a Vega 50" Pro fence. The original fence was not quite true as they used the fence rails to pick up and move the saw. Not very good for keeping everything plumb and square. The Vega was not that bad but I did have to fabricate a couple of brackets to get the power switch mounted and get the back rails to the correct height.

4. Purchased a BORK and a Sharkguard. I will use the Sharkguard as it is much heavier duty and I could flex my BORK if I pushed the wood through too fast. I will also probably get the Micro splitters as well.

I also would see little benefit to a 5 HP motor unless you were using a feeder to run stock through. My motor does not bog down at all and it is a 3 hp. So far I am happy with my saw. It was a bunch of work but I know how my saw is put together and how to adjust things.
 
#17 ·
Well originally I was just going to oil and clean things up as is….but then I felt the arbor had a bit of rubbing/grining sound, so I took it off to replace bearings. This ended up taking all day, as all the machgine shops are closed on Sat. I just can't get off work during their hours during the week….Finding a 6203 RS bearing on Sat isn't easy….Once again the ever Faithful Tractor Supply store saved the day, but they only had one left so I had to then drive across town. A friend's dad had a press, and some needed specialty tools or getting arbor fixed up. I thought the bearings would go on like on Delta Unisaw, and had decided a press was nesc. Turns out that was wrong. Really the way they just fit in the cast iron, you can se a regular vice as your press. Main thing is to remember to put only 1 on until shaft and spacers are attached. In any case it's amazing how much smootherit feels with some new bearings… it wasn't as tough as I thought it would be.

I took motor off completely So I could get at trunnions better to clean. So Now I am wondering about changing motor's bearing etc. On that one I kind of think I'd like a machine shop to do it if I can find reasonable price.

I have bean cleaning trunions and scraping away this horrible dried grease some previous owner had it's dried on to gears like a super wax, finally had to spray down wth penetrator and use razor blade to scrap clean, then went over it all with some PG2000…..runs smooth like butter now….so I will keep them on, only reason i kind of wish I could take them off, is they have rust areas and would love to clean those up, and repaint inside as well.

Maybe later I just want this working by time power is hooked up.

New Questions….

1.) I hate the stanbard switch, and I want a knee knocker or kick off….any suggstions?

2.) Brickman, what did you attach the sharkguard too if you don' have BORK. Mine didin't come with splitter. So I was going to get the MJ's.

3.) If I do decide the motor is less then what I want what is the going rate to get motor refurbed vs a new motor?

Even though it has taken me alot of time…...I'm glad I went this route, I'll have a much better saw when done, I trulyhave learned alot, and it's kind of like anti-stress therapy to work on it, vs the office. I may have to find something else to restore when I am done now…:p
 
#18 ·
1.) I hate the stanbard switch, and I want a knee knocker or kick off….any suggstions?

here's a couple of DIY possibilities (and one of them is on a right tilt griz like yours)
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=42699&s=9e79d65b81c31f26e3b5dac6551b1cae

2.) Brickman, what did you attach the sharkguard too if you don' have BORK. Mine didin't come with splitter. So I was going to get the MJ's.

i've heard the small tabs that attach th esplitter to the surface of the insert are prone to failure. here's how shopnotes magazine did it on a DIY fabricated insert:

http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/090/videos/making-a-zero-clearance-insert/

3.) If I do decide the motor is less then what I want what is the going rate to get motor refurbed vs a new motor?

in the new york city tris state area, when i refurbished a 40 yo unisaw, the bearings on a 3 hp baldor could have been better. estimates ranged from $150 to knurl the shaft (as it was worn at the bearing locations) to $450 to turn the motor shaft on a lathe and replace the bearings (my windings were apparently, ok). on the assumption that you don't view this as a DIY undertaking, get local recommendations for a good electric motor shop. i found a guy whose shop looked awful, but it turns out my electrician friends thought he was the "mad scientist" of electric motor repair, and he repaired it wonderfully.

3hp 1ph unisaw frame replacement motors can cost upwards $375 and as much as $600. there are cheaper alternatives, such as finding a motor of lower power with the incorrect frame and buying as adapter bracket so it can be mounted to an original motor bracket. i personally don't like this alternative as it strays form a saw's original design, but it can be (especially in the case of unisaws with their unique motor mount), a much less expensive alternative. i found these guys to offer new leeson 3hp motors with unisaw frames at very good prices.

http://cgi3.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewUserPage&userid=electricmotorsite

might be worth a check for an aftermarket motor for your griz if refurbishing gets too expensive.
 
#19 ·
Grizzly does make a paddle switch but they start at $120 and are never in stock. You have to buy all of the parts and put them together. I am going to do one of the DIY solutions as my switch works ad just needs the paddle.

On the back side if the arbor assembly on my saw was the mounting holes for the original splitter. I took mine off as it exited out of the back of the saw and it was in the way of mounting the Vega. The Sharkguard was pretty easy to install on my saw. http://www.thesharkguard.com/installbw.php. I can swap them out between the three guard sizes fairly quickly.

The BORK is a good idea but the arm that attaches to the arbor is aluminum. I will probably fabricate a steel arm as I can flex the aluminum and one day I will bend it enough to get it into the blade. More so a side effect of my inexperience on a saw but I prefer steel over aluminum for parts that see stress.

No recommendation on a motor. Would love a Baldor but as I use my saw as a hobby saw I will most likely stick to the Grizzly motors if I have any issues.
 
#20 · (Edited by Moderator)
Brickman, most of the aluminum arm on the BORK should be supported by the cast iron swing arm of the saw. If the saw blade and the riving knife are sized properly, there really shouldn't be much stress on the riving knife. No doubt steel would be stronger, but that hasn't been an issue with mine. Under what conditions are you getting it to bend?
 
#22 ·
My BORK arm has a slot cut in it at the bend following the arm of the saw. It allows it to flex quite a bit if the wood puts any pressure on the knife. I spoke to Bob about it and he said that he has been pinning them to remove the flex. I did just see that he is making them out of stainless steel which might be a fix. I am either going to get the slot welded or switch to the stainless. My arm does not have the pin so it can flex enough for the knife to contact the blade.
Eyewear Wood Wire stripper Eye glass accessory Everyday carry


!
 

Attachments

#24 ·
mj splitters' 2 tabs that are inserted into the insert plate are somewhat prone to snapping off. it apparently doesn't happen often and is the only knock i've heard regarding them.
 
#26 · (Edited by Moderator)
1.) I think I will start with the MJ Splitters for this saw, though the stainless steel Bork is a likely upgrade….but honestly rather save that money towards a roller outfeed and or wood to actually cut on this thing.. :D

2.) Maybe I'm lazy but I'm thinking I will stick with the thin kerf for now, I don't think it would be easy to return at this point, and I will not be cutting very thick wood…..I may regret that we'll see.

3.) Zero clearance insert question… Okay I'm a noob….but how do you make them? I see diff people selling them everywhere. However I'm curious how you cut into them as at lowest level isn't a 10" blade still high enough to touch. Can you simply raise running saw up through them?

4.) Is it considered immoral to repaint your Grizzly saw some other color then Grizzley Green? Thinking Vault 101 blue, with Vult Tec logo…and pip boy… .........hmmmmm Yellow stripes….and neon light effects…. (or just blue)



Actually only the repaint it blue part is true…..it has alot of spots that paint has flecked, and rusty…thinging of sanding up and repaining cabinet. Though the above would be pretty sweet.

5.) Sigh….thought I'd have 220 line last week then this week, now it may be next week as several of friends guys on crew are sick with bug going around. Just as well gives me time to order bearings.

6.) no idea why I am numbering this….it's late hard week, and Tequila helped….
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top