Reply by Cosmicsniper

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Posted on Table saw jointer vs router table jointer

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2202 posts in 3159 days

#1 posted 10-01-2012 05:12 PM

I have a 6” jointer. More often than not, I’m too lazy to use it. Normally for edge jointing, I just take a board, a little oversized, and make a few 1/16” rips on the table saw, alternating passes on each edge. After two or three passes, you will get a good, straight reference edge. I judge this by how flat it sits against the fence. Errors are “averaged out” eventually.

For shorter boards, a shooting board is just as fast to me anyway, so I normally hand plane those.

For face jointing, I will sometimes just “average it out” by flipping it a few times in the planer. I judge this by using my table saw as a reference for flatness. If the board has grooves or will be jointed to other boards, then they typically get straightened out during glue-up anyway.

For something more critical, like a wider table top, it won’t fit in my jointer anyway…so I usually hand plane it.

So, the chief use of my jointer is for 2 to 6” boards that are a little wavy on their faces. If I can take out that wave enough to where it sits right on the router fence, then I’m usually good to go.

I am convinced that I can live perfectly fine without my jointer, but that’s largely because I have to reconfigure my DC system to use it. If I had permanent ducting and something closer to a 10” size, I’d use such a jointer MUCH more frequently.

And BTW, a taper jig on the table saw or offsetting the fences on my router table (for jointing) would be completely acceptable alternatives for edge jointing. A planer sled works very well for face jointing…and I use mine quite a bit.

-- jay,

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