Hi All,
Just wondering what all you woodworkers do in the winter when spaying finish via HVLP. Obviously you cant spray outside in the winter. So how many of you have made things like spray booths for the shop. My shop is very big and if there are any tips you would like to pass along it would be very appreciated.
What items, and with what materials are you spraying?
I'm in Connecticut. I cover my table saw and outfeed with canvas drop cloths, hang curtains around the perimeter, and install an industrial fan in my door, with a foam insulation plug everywhere the fan isn't. The curtain line is installed permanently, so the curtains go up in minutes.
I only spray water based lacquer and catalyzed finishes. I spray indoors all year long, as I prefer raking artificial light to natural, not to mention a lack of breezes and control over temperature and humidity.
I would not recommend this setup for flammable finishes without an explosion proof fan, lights, and switches.
I know a guy in Branford who picked up a body shop spray booth for less than 2 grand at an auction. If you've got the space and cash, it might be worth looking, especially with wood shops hurting due to a lack of construction.
I spray water borne finishes, and small boxes, so I set up a box fan and furnace filter on a stand and point it at a kitchen window. Hardly elegant, but works.
I spray a coat, give the fan 30 seconds to clear the overspray (not much with hvlp) and shut it off and close the window.
Brett, Since you say you have a large shop, would you have room enough to make a small area for just spraying along an outside wall? You could build a small spray booth. A typical spray " booth" is three sided with a good exhaust fan with filters. ( lights and fan needs to be explosion proof). In a lot of spray booths; the side walls don't even go all the way to the ceiling. The problem with an open spray booth is you really can't do anything else when you're finishing. If you're a one man shop, that's usually not a problem. Since you are using an HVLP system, there shouldn't be much overspray and having a booth keeps the spray confned and allows the fan to pull more directly from that area. I've sprayed for years that way and have had pretty good results.
If you're a production shop, then you should probably invest in a totally enclosed spray room that not only filters the air it exhaust, but also the air it draws in. Can be very expensive, but will keep the EPA and everyone else happy. I've used both over the years and since I'm just a one man band, I found a spray "booth" works fine for me.
You could also buy one of those dream industrial ones..
Oh yeah, Fine woodworking or a woodworking magazine has a simple knock together one you could make… PM me for the plans if you want… I think I have it….
I took a couple of spray finishing classes at the local Woodcraft. They took some craft board (looks like a plastic version of corrugated cardboard) and built a booth that is big enough to spray an end table. They used the motor & impeller section of a dust collector to provide suction. The back end was free. We sprayed various oil based finished all day. No explosion proof devices were used.
In my small woodshop, I have hanging plastic tarps (from Harbor Freight) that I can hang from the rafters. I use a 20" box fan to suck air out the door. Here in Saint Louis I spray September/October through May/June. I want the shop in the low 70s. I also have a dehumidifier. For woodworking I almost exclusively spray lacquer and have not had any problems. I was told that lacquer dries so fast that by the time it gets to the fan it has hardened to dust like particles.
I spray water-based paint in a little wooden shed used only for that purpose. I've had it freeze on the work in winter, it makes frost patterns like you sometimes see on windows. Quite pretty, but not the effect I wanted, so now I just wait for the thaw or put an electric heater in there.
I use a one car garage. I built a PVC cube, and cut plastic for it. The blue tape works well to hold it together. I've got furnace filters on both ends, and use a box fan to push air in through one filter and out the other. It's not cemented together, so i can take it down and put it in storage when not needed. Like the others, I don't spray flamables in there. I have a gas water heater in there, and it could make for a bad, bad day!
well, I live in a town where the average day time temps in the summer are around 75 and winter is 65 so working outside is never much of an issue. That said, I built a PVC cube with plastic for wind purposes. I got a grommet kit and bolted the plastic to the frame, through the grommets. I have only 3 sides built up, but it wouldn't be hard to make it bigger, four-sided, and vent it.
I went to Walmart a couple years back and found a pop up as many call it. It is 10' square and I also found a wall kit to go with it. I throw a tarp on the floor, set it up and vent. Pictures enclosed. I think it was just over 100 bucks total.
FWIW, I ran across these inline blowers and wanted to share. From what I read, if they're USCG approved, they are explosion proof. These are used to vent fumes from engine compartments prior to startup, so I'd think you'd be safe with one. $40 for a 235 cfm explosion-proof blower is a heck of a deal from what I've seen. Just please notice that they require a DC power supply.
Yes I use a fan, the pictures above I was using an inline fan that is used in a 6" trunk line to boast flow. I have since changed to a squirrel cage fan. Keep in mind I use all water based product so I don't have the explosion problem.
I have looked everywhere and can't find the CFM on my unit. It is a Lasko model 4914. It does a good job for me. I just dropped it into a cardboard box, cut a hole for the discharge, and cut a 6" hole in the top and installed a 6" round vent pipe in the top. I open a window and set it in it. Connect a flex pipe and I am good to go.
This is a great time for me to try this idea, as all the odd lot stores have canopys on blowout sale.
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