Reply by dbhost

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Posted on how many 220s do you need/wish you had?

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5723 posts in 3254 days

#1 posted 08-08-2012 04:17 PM

Sorry, I was in a hurry on my last response. Let me be a little clearer on what I am trying to say…

In my in progress electrical project, I am adding 6 circuits, 3 of them 110V, 3 of them 220V. All of the 110, and 2 of the 220 are 20 amp, 1 220 is 30 amp.

Right now, every last bit of my equipment is 110V only. And most of it is not dual voltage capable.

My 29 gallon air compressor is less than 2 months old, and I am tickled silly with it. No chance that is going to be changed out for 220 any time soon.

My air conditioner, 13.5K BTU portable unit is 110V only, and works flawlessly. Because I want to be able to press portable units into service INSIDE the house if the AC ever goes out again, I want to stay 110V with this. Very little chance I will go away from that. Ever. Same goes with heat. My little oil filled radiator takes a while to heat up the shop, but once it is warm, the shop stays toasty on the lowest setting, no need for 220V here…

Dust collector. It works, but I have a big desire for a 3HP cyclone. That will require 220V for sure.

Band Saw, lathe, miter saw? All Harbor Freight 110V, not convertible, and working flawlessly…

Table saw? I am saving my $$ up for a 3 HP SawStop PCS. The cyclone and SawStop are why I want 220V. I actually very much love my Ryobi BT3100-1, it is a way better saw than folks give credit for, but it lacks a blade brake. While I hate the SawStop inventors legal / legislative tactics, I do like the product… Like I mentioned, if Grizzly offered the G0961 type saw with a similar, or better technology safety devices, I would be all over that.
I am hopeful by the time I can afford one, they will offer just such a saw.

Jointer, Planer, sanders? All bench top, all 110V and very likely to stay that way. I am happy with the way they work, and I do not want to dedicate floor space for dedicated floor models!

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