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Reply by Ralph

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Posted on Yes, one more person seeking help on selecting a table saw...

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Ralph

164 posts in 877 days


#1 posted 07-24-2012 11:42 PM

BlankMan-
The line is 14gauge, actually that is what I was checking when I found the unused fourth (red) wire. Your comment about the actual motor draw is very, very, interesting; 240V@5A is just over 1.5HP of input power. That’s a lot of power! Good point, I’ll keep that in mind. BTW, were you using a thin kerf blade? As far as used saws, I have been checking Craig’s list, and either the saws are huge, or very pricey; like a few hundred shy of a new saw.

knotscott-
I don’t know… both trunnions look very similar… but then they are designed to do the same thing, so some similarity is to be expected. I’ll keep the 1023 in mind, especially in light of the measurements made by BlankMan.

Toolie-
My wallet does not stretch as far as a Powermatic, so there is no worry there. Thanks for the link to Steel City. One advantage of SC is that Lowes sells it- at least they are listed as a supplier, and CS saws show up on Lowe’s computer. Interesting point you make about required motor power vs. saw alignment. The new thin kerf saws require less power, and its cheaper to get a good blade than to get more HP in the saw. Again, BlankMans’ current measurements are very interesting.

PurpLev-
The unisaws I found – although I’d love to own an American made saw- were upwards of $2-2.5k, totally more than I want to spend. The grizzly is a possibility, but maxes out my wallet. That’s the whole issue, finding a saw within my budget.

Charlie-
Sorry if it wasn’t clear: I will have 240V@15A service going to the garage. I hear you about the saw and the woodworker. For some reason I equate “machine accuracy” with “cabinet saw”. You can tune up a saw up to a point and then it is out of your hands. In my former life I built kitchen cabinets with a Craftsman radial arm saw. The cabinets were European style, which made them simple to build. I also built the Corian counter tops. The radial arm saw was so bad that I used to spend a couple of hours adjusting the saw, and a couple of hours cutting wood. I don’t want to repeat that experience. By the way, that saw was originally wired for 120V; it used to bog down and then pop the breaker. I rewired the motor for 240V and the saw never bogged down again. I suspect the voltage at the motor terminals didn’t droop as much. Charlie, for me, a 60A service would be like going to heaven, actually even a 30A service would make me a very happy man, but alas, only a 15A service is in my future! Thanks for the good word on the Steel City saw.

ALL-
THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR TAKING THE TIME TO RESPOND.

It is great to communicate with more experienced woodworkers.

... and so the search continues. I’ll keep you posted…

-- The greatest risk is not taking one...


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