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Wetland CNC Build

6K views 43 replies 10 participants last post by  rawdawgs50 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I supposed some of you might be interested in seeing this so I am filming a bit as I bring it to life.

This is a 4'x5' CNC Router that will have a rack and pinion setup. If all goes as planned, it should prove to be a big help to production and allow me to take on jobs that were to time consuming before.

I have quite a few months of research and design and parts selection into this….it should work as planned…if not, I am committed to making it work as planned. A little revision along to way never hurts.

My two goals were to build a machine around my wood working needs first and then for a cost of less than half of what it would be to buy one this size. It is not inexpensive to build this, but very cost effective when looking at the alternative.

My benchmark for a good CNC for my needs is the ShopBot. While this one will not have all the bells and whistles…its the accuracy I am aiming for.

Video Here:


-Jason
Wetland Wood Works
 
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#2 ·
I'm an engineer, machinist, woodworker, and Jack of All Trades (master of none). I'm mostly just a glorified Shade Tree Mechanic. I've thought about building one of these off and on for a long time. I'm going to favorite this so I can keep up with it if you don't mind. I wish you the best of luck on it. Thanks for posting.

helluvawreck
https://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com
 
#3 ·
If you're not registered over at the CNCzone….. there's a ton of good info and helpfull bot heads over there.

Mach III on a garage sale PC, driving a Geko 540 and NEMA 23 steppers makes a very economical package.

You'll never push Shop Bot speeds, but micro-steppers will give you all the resolution you could ask for.

I'm 80% done with converting a benchtop mill to CNC (project stalled due to to many committments) and am using this combination.

I program for a CNT 900 sereas at work and though we can run upwards of 900 ipm, we seldom push it that fast. Also, with a shorter machine, you'll never have straight line moves long enough to accelerate to that speed anyways.
 
#4 ·
CNCzone is great. That forum helped me a lot from the beginning and I still visit it regularly.

The Gecko G540 and 4 nema 23 motors is the setup on this I am using. Its a little more than others, but it is rated highly for being glitch free. I am not trying to chase electrical demons.

I do not know how fast ipm it will go flat out….but I would not be surprised to see it over 700ipm+ with the gear reduction on the R/P. I am trying to make the gantry as rigid and as light as possible. So even a few pounds less than normal can have a huge affect on acceleration/deceleration.

But like I mentioned before…I will not mind speed…but its accuracy and repeatability I really care about.
 
#5 ·
Video 2 is now up


This video just gives insight into the mechanical parts being used, which will become more apparent in subsequent videos. This way it is easier to know what the different components were when you see them.

Also I was so impressed with some new drill bits I purchased that I thought it should be included in the video as well. Maybe you all have experience wit these types of bits, but its the first time I have used them…and after all these years drilling odd metal jobs with my wood working bits…I am again a believer in the right tool for the job. These are made to drill stainless steel and they did not even break a sweat on my 1/4" cold rolled steel.
 
#17 ·
I am eagerly awaiting more videos. So far, I have learned a lot of new information. Two questions I have (if you are open to questions) is; how did you set the two X-axis rails parallel to each other? and how straight are the 3×1/4 CR rails. I have other questions, but I will save them for another time.
 
#18 ·
Ron,

The structure is very square. The x axis will self parallel itself by using the gantry and sliding it down the axis. I have not shown the video on that yet…sit tight.

The CRS was pretty straight, it helps to get something straight as can be to begin with. More than likely you will have to coax it one way or another for cnc accuracy.
 
#21 ·
ssnvet,

The project is not complete yet, although it is further along than the videos show. I will keep posting them through completion. Once that is done, I will consider releasing other stuff.

I do not want to get ahead of myself here with releasing content before reviewing it, so everything is getting rolled out as I can find time.

Thanks-
 
#25 ·
MrRon,

Lag screws can certainly do that…but I went to great lengths to prevent this. A quality glue up, proper sized pre drill, lubricated screws with wax before slow setting them, then backed out and hand torqued into place using a washer and a lock washer.

So far so good.
 
#26 ·
Rawdawgs50,
Thanks for your reply. I appreciate you taking the time to answer my concern. I have taken a different path in constructing my CNC router, so I must continue along that path. I am using MDO and barrel nut construction based on the "Build your own CNC Machine" website. I see the weaknesses of that construction and look to a more sturdy construction for my next machine. I'm trying to build a machine that uses as many off-the-shelf parts as possible without spending a boat load of money. At present, I'm confident that my machine will work as designed for cutting wood, but ultimately I want to cut aluminum and that's where evaluation of my current design will come under fire. Good luck with your own project. Looks like it will work great. I hope we can compare notes in the future. I have been bitten by the bug and this project consumes me.
 
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