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G0555 - Too much love nearly killed her/AKA broken wheel.

2K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  jopo 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hey I made a huge goof apparently and I suppose this is part therapy and part asking for advice.
I have a G0555 that I really really like. I work with hand tools about 1/2 the time but my bandsaw is my favorite powered tool. I've never had any issues with it including 'drift' etc. Well, she did shake a tiny bit so i thought, let's give her some love and try out one of these link belts. Following the manual, I loosened the motor bolts, and slid the original belt off the pullies. Then when I went to use a socket on my lower wheel, I found it extremely tight. I used a block of wood to hold the wheel while I used two hands to pull the socket and…boom I broke the wheel. I was so heartbroken myself. I rechecked the manual as I suspected the thread was left handed but reading it, it simply says "unthread the wheel mount bolt and…". It does not mention Left Handed Thread. At this point, the bolt was toast too. It broke off while I tried twisting it the other way.
So….now here I am with a broken wheel, a shaft stuck in the machine with a broken bolt inside. I really don't know what to do. Thoughts? I'm so bummed. I feel like as if I was giving my car an oil change and the engine fell out.
While I contacted Grizzly, they gave me back an email that said I could try to get the wheel welded. They also suggested drilling out the shaft bolt but I'm not really sure what they are thinking by that description. I mean, if I couldn't get it out with a head still on the bolt, what is drilling a hole in it going to do? I'm sure some of you machine experts have some good ideas. Drill, tap and throw a left handed bolt inside the bolt shaft? sorry…this is not my area of expertise.
  • Note, online I have seen a pdf of a g0555 manual that states the threads are left threaded but my saw is a 2002 and I promise you, it doesn't say anything about being left threaded.
 
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#4 ·
-loren - the wheel came off real easy when the bolt head broke…
and I've online that there are left handed bolts on lower wheels too…I just don't see it in my manual. The weird thing is, is that this whole process of changing a belt seemed so simple and I usually wouldn't even have opened the manual but it happened to be sitting there staring at me when I put the blade away. So…I opened it and went through the steps.

- pics
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#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
Parts listing in the manual clearly states it's a left hand thread (HEX BOLT M8-1.25 X 20 LH). Only option now is to either drill out the bolt, or replace the shaft. For the wheel, a new wheel would be preferable to brazing the old one, as that will throw it way out of balance. And while it's a bit late now… it would have been much easier just to cut the old belt (or just slip it off and leave hanging) and put on the link belt to try. However, in this case, I doubt a link belt will help much given the application.

Cheers,
Brad
 
#11 ·
Brad…thanks for the reply.
First though…I looked at the link to the manual listed and it does say LH in the parts and on page 48 (remove belt) but as I said, my older manual does NOT state LH.
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Second…as you mentioned…I could have cut the belt off and I thought about it but I also thought…well, this should be simple and maybe I'll like the OG belt better. It seemed so incredibly simple.

Third. I'm fine replacing the shaft. The shaft is cheaper then a RH thread extractor and I'm not sure if I'd even succeed using one. How do I go about getting the shaft out? Can I get to it from behind or am I going to need some other…what are they called?? pully tools?

Parts listing in the manual clearly states it s a left hand thread (HEX BOLT M8-1.25 X 20 LH). Only option now is to either drill out the bolt, or replace the shaft. For the wheel, a new wheel would be preferable to brazing the old one, as that will throw it way out of balance. And while it s a bit late now… it would have been much easier just to cut the old belt (or just slip it off and leave hanging) and put on the link belt to try. However, in this case, I doubt a link belt will help much given the application.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix
 

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#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
How do I go about getting the shaft out?
You should be able to remove the key and then just give the shaft a good smack with a dead blow hammer (or a block of wood and a regular hammer)- it will come out the back (motor side). The rear bearing will come out with the shaft, the front one will stay in the casting and need to be driven out from behind once the shaft is removed.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: You don't necessarily need a screw extractor… you can get them out without one if you are careful drilling.
 
#15 ·
You might as well go ahead and try to drill out that bolt… if you are going to order a new shaft, it certainly won't hurt anything to try. Also, since you have it apart, I'd replace the bearings while you are at it. Those are 15+ years old and it will be much easier to do it now and know that they are good, than to have them fail later and have to take everything apart again. A couple of quality 6204-2RS bearings will set you back about $10, and the ones that are in there now could be contributing to your vibration problems. YMMV.

Cheers,
Brad
 
#19 ·
Great advice from all re bearings - never thought of the ones in the motor but I'll at least try to see how smooth they are. Yeah…I've been thinking about adding a brush for a long time. I don't have a good dust collection on my saw so the lower wheel sees a lot of dust.
Just wanted to let ya all know that the people at Grizzly went out of their way to help me - more then they needed to especially considering this broke due to my mistake.
 
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