Reply by DS

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Posted on Building doors w/ full width rails

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3030 posts in 2619 days

#1 posted 03-27-2012 07:11 PM

Well, I used my cope and stick stack cutters, but used a square profile for the shaker effect. It technically IS a mortise and tennon, except the mortise continues through to form the panel slot. (Cope and Stick – square profile)

The stiles are 3/4” thick while the rails are 7/8” thick. There is an 1/8” bevel on the edge of the stiles to resolve the difference.

Himzzo: Normally that tall of a door would have a mid rail to help support the weight and help resist the tendancy for a twist.


You might consider 4” or 5” rails and stiles – I’d feel more confortable with that solution w/o a mid rail.

Or, perhaps you do a hidden mid-rail behind the panel on the inside.

Or just brace the back of the door, if your design allows.

Once, I repaired some failed oversized doors (36X48 – someone else’s work), by drilling through the edge of the stile into the rail with a giant lag bolt and then plugging the hole. It was necessary to fortify the joint with some serious hardware. So far, they’ve held up.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

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