Reply by Kenny

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Posted on Refinishing a pine aquarium stand (first project)

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260 posts in 2444 days

#1 posted 03-19-2012 08:21 PM

First, pin is a blotch prone wood, and if it blotched originally, it will again. Charles Neil makes the absolute best product on the face of the planet for blotching, you can find it HERE. Don’t ever stain or dye pine or other blotch prone woods without it if you want to avoid the blotching. Yes, there are other products, but none that work near as well.

Second, I recommend sanding through the old stain. If it has blotched and you don’t, you will never cover the blotching without painting it. Also, staining over existing stain is going to make a really dark mess of the wood. Just start with fresh wood (ie: sand away the old stain), it will be easier to get good results.

As for color, avoid Minwax. I’ve never had good results from it, ever. I’ve switched almost totally to General Finishes, as their products are worlds away better. Yes, they cost more, but you’ll likely only need a pint unless this is a really large piece.

For finish, I would avoid poly all together for your first piece. It can be harder to get good results than it may seem.

Again, General Finishes makes an awesome finish called Arm-R-Seal that is simply wiped on and then wiped back a few minutes later to remove excess. You let dry for 12-24 hours and repaet. 3-5 coats and your good. It’s an extremely tough and durable finish and doesn’t require any special tools or talents. You don’t even need a brush!

Just be sure to hang the rags and let them dry before disposal! Oily rags can spontaneously combust if disposed of improperly. So always allow the to dry thoroughly before disposal.

Sanding, go to 220 before staining, 320 or 400 after, and 400-600 between coats of finish. And just a wipe between the finish coats! And don’t sand after the first coat of oil either. Wipe the finish with 400-600grit after the second and third coat, and if it’s smooth after the fourth, don’t even sand.
If it’s got some dust, lightly sand with 600 and finish up with a good wax. Kiwi natural shoe polish is an excellent wax, it dries hard and can be buffed to a high shine.

You may even want to pick up a 600grit foam sanding pad for the between coats sanding, they work very well and don’t cost much.

If you need sources for anything I mentioned, let me know and I’ll post links. If you have questions, just ask!

Good luck

-- Kenny

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