Reply by markplusone

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Posted on Milling problems

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81 posts in 3127 days

#1 posted 03-08-2012 02:11 AM

I had a similar board from my sawyer that was straight as a pin when I got it. It was a stick of maple 8” wide and 120” long 10/4 stock. I was making a dovetail slide for an expandable table. First cut after running around the board (face joint, edge joint, plane, rip) was a rip 2” wide. It bowed almost 4” and 1.5” up over 10’. Did another cut, same thing. Know what I did? I turned it into about 3 hours of heat. With casehardened wood, you have to pick and choose your battles. I dont even bother trying to wet it and get it out. Usually, Im dealing with too thick of material to effectively get the moisture deep enough to release all the internal tension nor do I have the time to dry it correctly (most dehumidification kilns take roughly 0.3% moisture content per day below 20% m.c. measured for red oak around 130deg. F. Less than that the thicker or more dense the material). In fact, the case hardening can be so extreme the actual cells of the wood could rupture in wich case there is nothing you can do at all. Too much warp is just not worth the effort to correct and have it come back. Check your source of lumber and verify their drying techniques. If your not sure, ask someone what it should be or research a little and compare drying schedules. Could be just a rogue board. It happens. Just save yourself the frustration and get another stick to play with.

-- Dont carry that which you dont hold with.

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