WayneC-
Good idea. Totally unmarked. Laminated steel edge that a file skates off of without effect. Slowly, as the mood
moves me, I'm grinding past the pits in the steel with 50 and 80 grit sandpaper. I have intentions to sharpen it up to beard shaving sharpness. The handle has been removed and replacement Hickory handle is being refined.
Because I don't know any better I call it a cooper's adze. If I'm a good boy I'll find a hand bowl adze and a lipped ship's adze for cheap at a flea market someday.
Here's my carpenter's adze. Fairly pitted but someone has done some work to remove the pitting on the non beveled flat face so it should be able to work pretty well. I got it because it was a good deal, but as far as I understand the use, it's a different method of getting the same result as a broad axe/hatchet which I also have. I too would like a bowl adze. What's a lipped ship adze like, Chuck?
To my mind a lipped ship adze as the photos show is one with the main cutting edge curving away at a steep (90 degrees or thereabouts) angle for a short distance. In use this would avoid leaving tracks sort of like (but different) to cambering a planes blade. Some think that a ship adze should also have a spike on the end away from the cutting edge for driving metal fasteners below the surface that is to be cut with the edge.
Also a broad axe would be difficult to to use on a ships deck. Boats come in a bunch of different shapes and have a bunch of different angles located in a bunch of difficult to reach places.
chuck
A pair of Spanish Bellota's..bigger one came as a flat style from L/V, modified it to curved, the I other think I paid 99 cents for at a surplus store maybe 40 years ago, a tack hammer that got a new life .
pair of full size ones, curved one w/original handle , no name, .The lighter spot on that handle is where the auction house put the sellers number in felt pen..
could do more work on the flat blade one, no name but made in Galt, Ontario, it came as a donation from x the street as a chicken coop and other old stuff was ripped out for a new house, obviously had been used as a grub hoe
Amazingly our local old time hardware stocks new handles..
I had posted pictures in another topic, totally unaware this one existed-but to join in the fun, I thought I'd post again here. (Thanks upchuck!)
This is a polled adze I recently acquired at an estate sale-the maker's mark is not one that I recognize-but I'm no expert. If any one recognizes it, I would very much like to learn more about it's likely origin.
The only text I can make out is A (I/L/D?) E S and (_ ?) R (A?) N T . There appears to be either a crown, or a Fleur de Lis mark, with a large "S" above it. There also appears to be a large "2"... possibly a 'figure 8' figure below the marks and text.
I'll be putting a handle on it in the next few months-hoping to put an edge on it and maybe put it to work, leaving the rest of it just about as is.
Hey Lucky-
Allow me to continue to be marginally helpful (very marginally I'm afraid)...I'll bet you a bright new shiny dime that your "(?) R (A?) N T" will translate into "WARRANTED" or something like that when you find out the rest. Warranted was a common imprint on old steel tools to indicate quality or some such from the maker. It's the rest of the imprint that will identify the maker of your tool. Let us know when you find out.
chuck
Adze head in Evaporust (I have some adzing that has to happen soon).
It's a Wm. Beatty & Son from Chester PA.
A carpenter's adze, hardly shows sign of use.
A little edge work done so far.
American hickory handle on order from Beaver-Tooth Handle Co. in Tennessee. Looks like the model I ordered now is 'Sold Out.' He'll make more, perhaps. And I'll post more pics when the handle comes in and test chips fly!
Wife's niece has me marked as a wood guy with all the old tools, and asked if I had an adze for doing this. Well I knew there was an adze head floating around in the shop space… and now I have the excuse to do a little tool refurb! Might even get to use it on some pine beams.
Read St. Roy excerpts today telling why the adze head is matched the way it is to the adze handle: for sharpening. The inside bevel is 'impossible' to work at the grindstone without separating the two. Makes sense to me.
That sounds like a lot of work, but should be fun. Makes sense for the handle, I just assumed mine was loose and needed to be fixed. Roy also talks about adzing right under your toe as the way it was done. Personally unless I got really good at it, I would find something to stand on to both sides like in your link.
I was surprised, looking at the graphic in the original post, to see the shipwright's adze shown without lips. When I was building boats all the adzes I saw were, like mine, lipped. We used them mostly for shaping timbers in a cross grain direction and the lips were essential in prevention of splintering and splitting. What comes off should be a shaving as wide as the face and cut cleanly at both ends by the lips.
Here is a photo of mine along with a slick I also used to use on timbers.
Thanks, wish I could take credit for that handle, it's a really nice piece of work. Feels like a brand new 'old' tool now!
More sharpening needed. The bevel needs to be 'under' the tool, not on the flat that makes contact with the wood in use. But mine has what I would call a reasonably strong back bevel; that changes the angle of attack to one that bites into the workpiece. And I don't like that. I'm wanting something closer to shavings vs. actual chips, if that makes sense.
Any bonafide carpenter's adze users out there with sharpening / usage input?
EDIT: Just did a quick bit of hacking on a tree trunk lying on the ground. While I can create a chip and then shave it off like is done in the video embedded in the link above, the angle of attack isn't right. More grinder work ahead!
I don't see a video in any of the above links. I'm either missing it or my internet settings are blocking it. Have a direct link by chance? Now you've motivated me to get mine tuned up and try it out.
I'm also confused. When you say back bevel you mean a bevel on the side that's towards the wood right? Wouldn't that make the angle of attack less and dig in less? Or do you have to swing into the wood more. Maybe it would make more sense when I try one.
My bad, the video is wunderwoods (same as the link), but on youtube.
EDIT: Here's a good video of adze use as well. Notice he's hitting pretty flat while getting the adze to bite… Can't have a back bevel (blade surface on the woodside needs to be flat; cutting bevel faces user).
Just spent the better part of an hour grinding, sharpening and honing the adze head. Got the 'flat' much flatter by carefully working down (feathering out) the back bevel. I used the corse (black) DMT after light passes at the grinding wheel, mostly. It's actually a functioning adze now! But, more sharpening to come.
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