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Dying Large Surfaces

1K views 17 replies 13 participants last post by  DocSavage45 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
get so many emails on this decided to do a short video
 
#4 ·
Again Thanks

You turned me on to dyes a long time ago, If I may add, don't go so heavy that you get drips on the underside of what your dying that makes for extra work when you're ready to dye the other side, I learned from personal experience when I first started using dyes.

Charles, Just wondering what those wedges were on all of the corners of the table were for in the video?
 
#5 ·
Jim ,

this table has "company" boards ..you will see in the Mastering woodworking show ,The wedges act to make the company boards lift up on the end so they sit level .. this as the bottom of the table .. once the company boards are added it will be 11 ft long …
FYI ..Company Boards slide in on the end of the table
 
#6 ·
Thanks for sharing. I watched it last night after it popped up on your Facebook page. Regarding spraying dye in general - on smaller pieces, do you still saturate the surface and wipe, or do you ever dial the gun back and "airbrush" it to build up the amount of color you want?
 
#7 ·
Rich I often dial the fluid back and up the pressure and " do light dust coats , to get to the desired color, but if your not careful you can get "zebra stripes, " i always do a light coat one direction then the other,, its called a cross hatch .
backing off the distance to the the wood and dusting it on works the best .
Sounds like another video for another day .
In this case with the tiger maple, you want to get it wet so the soft curl can get as much dye as possible and when you wipe it back that pulls some of the dye off the hard grain , and that really enhances the figure
in other words tiger maple is a blotch that happens to be attractive and you want to blotch it as much as possible
 
#10 ·
Charles, Thank you AGAIN for sharing your great wisdom with us!

You are a true friend to us Woodworkers! :)
 
#12 ·
That's what I needed when I used dyes on a table first time. I had to resand it 4 times until I got the results I was after.
Now I have another big project and I will have to finish parts in different times. Like first fully finish raised panels for the doors. Then assemble the doors, sand seams and finish stiles and rails and so on.
I wander if I get the same color if I do not do it at the same time.
I am using Fuji 4 stage turbine for the reference.
 
#13 ·
Great one. I learned most of my finishing from your vid's and DVD's I have not used stains in years. Remember doing a bed, and the bed post was not right after spraying dye. Sanded it off did it again, was perfect. Thanks again for sharing.
 
#15 ·
Great video and your timing is perfect Charles, I'll be finishing my dining table within the next few weeks starting with GF water based dyes. I will definitely use this technique. Thanks!
 
#18 ·
Charles,

Good to see you on the Tube again doing your thing. FINALLY put a drier on my 20 gallon 4 hp compressor, and studying thinning techniques. First practice will be a wooden privacy fence and then my out buildings Like my shop as it has been a few years….LOL!

Will be fixing up my truck and working on some furniture projects. Sooooooo….

Thanks!
 
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