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How would you repair this tote? (esp Don W.)

3K views 32 replies 17 participants last post by  rodneywt1180b 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
This is on a No 8, type 10 which otherwise is a very nice plane.

I'm thinking I need to get the nails out somehow or drill the heads off them, then do a standard glue job and fill the holes. Any suggestions on how to do that?

Shoe Wood Natural material Trunk Foot


Thanks,
-Paul
 

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#4 ·
Oh. Getting the nails out might be a problem. If you can pry the pieces apart you might be able to pound the nails out enough to grip the heads and pull them out. Then try and glue back to gather again. Use the bold that holds in to the plane as a clamp.
 
#5 ·
I think if I were undertaking it I'd accept
that I was going to do some more damage,
pry the broken part off and tap the nails
out from the pointy side. Hopefully they
are short.

Once the nails are out… well, that's rosewood
I think and it doesn't glue well because of
oils in the wood. You'll have to soak the
glue surfaces in acetone. Brushing the solvent
on may be adequate. I know this is needed
to glue with PVA but with epoxy it may not
be needed.

Considering after removal and pounding the
nails out there may be substantial gaps that
prevent a good bond with PVA, I would use
an epoxy.

Good luck. If it's any consolation, I have a
few planes with that part broken off and
they work fine. It's the weakest point in
a Bailey bench plane by far.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for your comments Loren,

I appreciate you taking the time to consider my problem.

I'd rather not try to pry it, since that would bugger up the joint. I'd save that for a last resort.

Yeah, I have others without a horn. This is the first one with a broken horn that I actually have the part that broke off, so I like to fix it if I can.

Strange what you say about gluing Rosewood. I've used Titebond 3 for other plane knobs and totes and none have failed yet, but maybe I just haven't used them enough.
 
#7 ·
I fixed one using Titebond III the first time. It lasted about a 1.5 then separated at the glue line. The glue pretty much flaked off at that point.

I ended up doing as Loren described. I cleaned it up good with a wire brush first wiped down good with some acetone then wire brushed it again. I then put a temporary bolt/nut through it to get it all strait then drilled two small holes for dowels (mine was snapped at the bottom). I used Devcon 30 minute epoxy for glue and wood pin installation. Will see how it holds up as only been about 4 months now.

I have one with a broken horn and actually think I like the handle better as my thumb sets in a little groove across the bolt head compared to my other stanley handles.
 
#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
Maybe that would be best - just color the epoxy to sorta match.

I'm holding out for a repair that get's the nails out though. No hurry to do anything. I've got 2 No 8's! :)

I'm still hoping Don W will comment.

Don W is the master. Fixed the tote on my #62 and it was in four pieces. Is the repair a solid one? If so, add some epoxy and sand smooth.

- Smitty_Cabinetshop
 
#11 ·
You can jury rig your shop vac to suck the glue in.

To get a nail out, I've used a small pipe and ground very amateurish teeth on the end, then ran it over the nail. You may be able to limit to a quart inch deep, clamp with needle nose vice grips, then hammer the grips backwards (may need a second pair of grips).

When ready to put it all back together, I'd go with epoxy, since it'll fill too.
 
#12 ·
Maybe you can use a small punch and push the nail a little further in so that you can just pull the top off the rest of the way. That would leave the nail head exposed enough that you can grab it and pull it out. Then, you could use the nail hole as a guild to drill a larger hole for a dowel to reinforce it when you glue it back on.
 
#13 ·
Hi Paul

How about just remaking a new one?

- tyvekboy

I like to retain the 100-year-old rosewood…. to keep the tool as original as possible.
- Ocelot
I really don't see the point of saving it, if it's a matter of its collectible value collectors don't want planes with broken or patched totes anyway.as a user, a new tote is much more reliable.
Since you have saved other totes I'm guessing you're going to repair this one some how.Loren's suggestion seems like the way to go to minimize more damage if done carefully. the only other way to remove nails I can think of is to use one of these hollow drill saws that are typically used to remove broken screws.

http://www.oahurealty.net/blog/remove-broken-wood-screws.html
 
#14 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi Paul

I really don t see the point of saving it, if it s a matter of its collectible value collectors don t want planes with broken or patched totes anyway.

- a1Jim
Well, Jim. I'm the collector, and I like the old repaired rosewood! :) I'm never going to sell it. I don't care how many dollars I could exchange it for.

-Paul
 
#17 ·
You are right, Jim. Everyone has their own sentiments. This is not a tool for business. It's a hobby. It's not practical to care about rosewood that can no longer be shipped across national boarders as of January, but for now, it means something to me to keep the parts of this old tool together - while making it usable.

I can certainly appreciate the practical view also.

I think I've collected some ideas here, even if Don W., has yet to comment. :)

Lazyman and Kelly gave some good suggestions that I have not yet acknowledged.

-Paul
 
#18 ·
I remake my totes and knobs with Honduras Ridgewood from WC. I save the old ones for repair when I can, have many that the old East India Rosewood is in fine shape.

That said, finding "doner" planes is unavoidable if you are serious about collecting. My 2-cents worth…
 
#19 · (Edited by Moderator)
I would suggest you consider stabilizing the broken part by not just gluing it back in place but separate the two and drill well into the handle and also into the piece that comes off so that you can insert a metal rod between the two. You will not see this added stiffener and only you will know it is there. If you are worried about weight use aluminum, but for this I would just cut the head off a 16 penny nail, cut it to the length you need {longer is more stable} and epoxy the whole thing back together. The more of these you can get in there the better. It looks like this is sort of what they were trying to do with the nails they used, but you can do it blind and use bigger nails that will work.
Glue is good, but when you have both pieces tied together with epoxied in steel you now have a repair that can and will take some stress beyond just what the glue itself will take. I hope I am clear enough trying to explain this, if not let me know I can post some photos.
 
#20 ·
that's a tough one. Can you wiggle it? Is it glued and nailed or just nailed? If you can get it apart, then i'd color some epoxy and glue it back together. I might even leave the nails in for some added strength.
 
#21 ·
After looking at this photo for a while….... I'm thinking maybe wiggling it slowly like we did when we had a loose tooth all those years ago.
Maybe with a little patience, and some time, you can get it apart without tearing it up?
It's quite a challenge. I watched my dad do stuff like that when I was a kid.
Let me know how it goes Paul. I'm real curious. :)
 
#22 ·
Tie it to a door knob and slam the door ;-)

After looking at this photo for a while….... I m thinking maybe wiggling it slowly like we did when we had a loose tooth all those years ago.
Maybe with a little patience, and some time, you can get it apart without tearing it up?
It s quite a challenge. I watched my dad do stuff like that when I was a kid.
Let me know how it goes Paul. I m real curious. :)

- fivecodys
 
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