For finish crosscutting, I use both my 12" Dewalt slider with a 12" Forrest Chopmaster, and my table saw with an 80T crosscut blade on a very accurate sled.
I break down all my rough lumber on a Craftsman 10" RAS.
1. Use your table saw enough that you know it like an old friend. Keep it tuned up so so that it's square to the world.
2. If you're cutting a long board, measure and cut rough in the center of the board, to bring it down to lengths you can handle.
3. If your miter gauge allows it, attach an extension to cut longer boards. Again, keep it all square & straight.
I have never used a sled or owned a miter saw. Table saws have been around a lot longer than miter saws.
bbqKing
For what its worth, if I have to cross cut a rough lenght I use my circular saw for a riugh cut. If you have ever had the chance to see a blade pinched by reaction wood its something you will always remember.
For finish cuts I'll use a sled or my mitre saw.
i mostly use the miter saw for my cuts. i am thinking of building a crosscut sled though as i can only cut 6" on my miter saw. if i had a bigger one though i would probably do my cuts on that because i find it easier especially for longer pieces.
If I owned a first-class table saw, I would build a good crosscut sled for it, and purchase a good aftermarket miter guage as well.
In reality I have a small, cheap table saw. I do all my cross-cutting and miters on the miter saw. With a good blade I find I can make very accurate cuts.
Thanks for the tips, I am going to get a 10'' compound miter saw for on the job use and at home. I am also planning to upgrade my benchtop table saw in the coming year. since I done retire it. I can use my crosscutting handsaws for rough cutting boards and finish them up with a crosscut sled on the table saw.
For most general cross cutting I now use a radial arm saw. Just bought it last winter. Before that I used a 10" sliding miter saw for boards less that 12" wide. For items wider than that, I use a shop made crosscut sled for 90 degree cuts. I rarely use the miter gauge on my TS.
Radial arm Saw for long pieces, Tablesaw sled or mitre guage, OR occassionally the bandsaw OR handsaw. Sometimes the first think I put my hands on. For a neat finish it is hard to beat the table saw sled with a good crosscut blade.
Sliding compound miter saw for rough dimensioning and then the table saw/miter gauge with an extension for the precision squaring.
I have a very small shop and sometimes the work is too long to be done on the table saw. In those cases, I double check the miter saw, add a sharp blade and make the cuts there.
I use my RAS to cut to rough length before I do anything so my pieces are manegable. I do all finish work at the table saw, Miter guage or sled really depends on what I am cutting, All sheet goods is done entirely at the table saw. Hope this helps.
I use a RAS for my rough cuts. Then it usually the table saw with an Incra miter gage. I find it more accurate and repeatable than my peice of !@#$ Craftsman 10" miter saw. Its a pain to get and keep square and the degree marks are not accurate. It is good for demesional lumber and that's about it. I have considered getting a good quality 12" sliding mite saw to replace the RAS.
A table saw sled is your best bet for an economical
and versatile solution for furniture and cabinetry where
most of your cuts need to be "dead 90".
I've owned all the major tools over the years… even vertical
panel saws and the Festool System. Nothing beats a
sliding crosscut box for versatility except a sliding table
on a nice cabinet saw.
If you do job-site work or even put a lot of molding on your
furniture projects get a miter saw - you'll save time because
the settings can be changed so quickly.
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