Reply by crank49

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Posted on Ridgid R4512 Fine Tuning

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4030 posts in 2939 days

#1 posted 12-22-2011 09:26 PM

Please don’t take it wrong. I’m not out to put anybody’s equipment down. I bought the same saw about 20 months ago, from Sears. Mine is the Craftsman version, Model 21833, that’s made in the same factory from the same design drawings by the same workers, but painted red and silver instead of orange. I think I paid $409 for mine and close to $450 with Tennessee tax. I have made a lot of stuff on it in that time and have learned to live with its quirks, but I wish I had held out for a better machine as well.

One other point, when you get the blade alligned with the miter slot, then recheck the fence. You actually want the fence to be very slightly skewed away from the rear of the blade, no more than .015” or about 1/64”, to prevent binding. I’ve heard people say no more than .002” out, but I wonder what type of wood they work with. I think a board would grow more than .002” from the heat of cutting.

OOPS! I see Bill beat me to the point.

I see you asked if the skewed fence would not affect the cut. I suppose it could technically, but not from a practical standpoint. Really, only the part in front of the blade should have an effect. In a perfect world I guess the fence could be split with the back half stepped over a little while the front stayed perfectly parallel to the blade. But most folks just skew the whole thing slightly.

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