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Reply by GregD

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Posted on Delta Rockwell 20" A/B Bandsaw Fence Question....Help!

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GregD

616 posts in 1789 days


#1 posted 12-08-2011 06:28 PM

I think you first want to decide whether you buy into the idea that the fence needs to be adjusted for drift angle, or if you buy into the idea that it doesn’t.

Carter’s also makes a magnetic bandsaw fence, and that design doesn’t make sense at all if you believe in drift angle adjustment. You just eyeball the alignment before engaging the magnets. When I chatted with Alex from Carter’s at the last woodworking show about setting up a band saw for resawing he emphasized other adjustments and led me to believe that drift angle was of no consequence.

For the record, I’ve got the Kreg fence on my 14” Rikon, and I’ve built a tall resaw fence:
http://lumberjocks.com/GregD/blog/21908
http://lumberjocks.com/GregD/blog/21933

The bit of resawing I’ve done this year makes me want to match the height of my resaw fence to my stock. The adjustment I fuss over the most is making sure the fence is parallel – top to bottom – with the blade. And when I was resawing 80” lengths of 8/4 I want to be very sure that both ends of the fence are firmly attached to the table so it doesn’t move when I need to put a lot of pressure on the work to keep it up tight against the fence. I usually find that my resawn work piece (between the fence and the blade) comes out a bit thick at the beginning end of the cut and a bit thin on the final end of the cut. My cut quality is usually OK but not great, provided I am very careful about maintaining a slow feed rate.

In the end, if you plan your resawing so that you have some thickness available to plane off the imperfections things are pretty easy and a shop-made fence that clamps to your top does just fine. My local Woodcraft has a shop made resaw fence on its big band saw, if I’m remembering correctly. If you wanna make like David Marks and resaw veneer with a nearly perfect surface off the saw blade, you are headed far out of my league.

-- Greg D.


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