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How to make this joint.... Biscuits to help with allignment?

6K views 32 replies 19 participants last post by  pmayer 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I decided to use a mitered corner joint to connect the end panel style to the front panel style on this hope chest build. I originally planned on using a lock-miter bit joint, but later bailed on that idea, as I couldn't find any examples of lock-miter joints on long edges (21" in my case).

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So my plan is to just rip cut the long miter at a 45° and then use biscuits to help register the parts, like this…
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Has anyone out there ever done this? If so, how did you reference to the biscuit jointer fence to get accurate and repeatable placement?

I'm also looking for some input on how to clamp these joints. I'm thinking of fabricating some 'L' shaped right angle clamping cauls.

Thanks in advance for any tips or help.
 

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#3 · (Edited by Moderator)
I'm seeing four different ways to line up for biscuit joints. I wonder which one is the best method…
I have to keep in mind that the sharp edge is actually quite fragile and can be easily chipped.

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#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hello Matt. I suggest using the lock miter. It's self aligning and a strong joint. I see no reason why you can't have a 21" long joint. It sounds to me like the perfect choice for this application. Here are a few projects where I've used this joint.

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I have a few suggestions when using this router bit (lock miter or lock miter Jr.). Use the correct lock miter bit for the thickness of stock you will be using. Consider getting a setup guide offered by Infinity tools. It's expensive, but it really does help you quickly get the bit adjusted to make accurate cuts. Make sure to have a few extra few boards on hand to test and adjust the cut of the lock miter bit before you make the cut on your project stock. It's very important that the test boards be the same thickness as the project stock-they do not have to be the same species (e.g. use less expensive wood or leftover scraps). Use a feather board (if possible) to hold the stock against the fence (vertical cut) and against the table (horizontal cut)-this will yield a better result.

With this joint you can use regular clamps with no worry of it coming out of alignment. Other options for clamps are a band clamp.

It seems to me if you want to use the biscuit joiner that you should use the fence on joiner to set it up for the 45 degree cut. Just make a mark on each piece of stock to reference the slot. You can clamp a stop to your workbench to keep the stock from sliding while you are making the cut.

Here's a simple option for your corner joint >
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I hope this was helpful. Good luck!
 

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#6 · (Edited by Moderator)
I've been working on a project that I've decided needs biscuit joinery and in my research it seems as if the PC 557 handles the mitered joint task much better than any other of the machines commonly available. This video shows this function in action.

John Heisz has a video showing how he made clamp calls for mitered joints that might be worth checking out.
 
#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
Lock miter was my first pick… but after testing my lock miter bit on short stock, the joint was so darn tight it was very difficult to close up the joint… and that was with short scrap pieces.

It may be my bit isn't the best, but I bailed on the concept and have already mitered my styles on the TS.

This is the second time around with hope chests for me, and on the first one I did a slot/tenon joint…
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by using a mitered corner I was hoping to get away from the joint line, as no matter how well I sanded the finish flush, the discontinuity in the grain made the joint obvious.
 

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#8 ·
Matt, a spline or the lock miter would probably be your best options.
The lock miter would be the strongest of the three you've considered.
 
#9 ·
I agree with the others, but I have joined long miters with biscuits. My joiner if the PC 557, and it has the 135º Fence setting (3rd pic in your 3rd post) and works quite well.
 
#11 ·
I've made those joints many times, with a multitude of different techniques. They all worked, but one works much better than the rest. A locking miter bit at the router table is the way to go. The joint will close easily with clamping pressure from one direction. No need for brad nails to fully seat the joint.

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#12 ·
My biscuit jointer is the PC model… I'll have to try it on some test pieces….

Thanks for the link to the Youtube guy with the painters tape. I'd seen that video before, but forgot about it.

I still hope to give the lock miter bit a try, but I had so many other first time "skill builder" aspects to this project (raised panels, cope and stick cuts, grain filling, dyeing, etc…) that I didn't want to add another one with the lock miter bit. Next time around (I still have one more daughter to go).
 
#13 ·
I ve made those joints many times, with a multitude of different techniques. They all worked, but one works much better than the rest. A locking miter bit at the router table is the way to go. The joint will close easily with clamping pressure from one direction. No need for brad nails to fully seat the joint.

- pintodeluxe
+1 on that. I got the Infinity Tools bit and setup jig. The setup jig is grossly overpriced in my opinion, but it does work.
 
#15 ·
I made some 24" legs (2 1/4" square) using a locked miter bit out of red oak. Worked great. Take your time with the setup, make sure that you apply pressure downward and toward the fence with feather boards or something similar. I would made a box about 12×12 x 12 using miter joints and biscuits. It was extremely had to assemble and glue up. I do not recommend it.
 
#17 · (Edited by Moderator)
I agree with going for the full length spline (since you already did the cuts). It'll add significant strength, especially if you orient the grain in the same direction that your #1 post reply shows. You can make the splines out of shorter segments to get the proper grain direction, just stack them together.

I've made 24" long 2"x2" table legs out of 3/4" QS stock to have a "show face" all around. The lock miter bit was the way to go (but you can't use this now due to you having already cut the 45's).
 
#18 ·
In the same situation, I'd use the biscuits. I use a spline only in end grain glue ups where you need the face grain glue surface area of the spline. In long grain joints, as the OP has proposed, the long grain will glue up quite well, and the biscuits are just for registering the joint. I, too, have the porter cable biscuit joiner. Works swell for this situation.
 
#19 ·
Good point sawdust! I hadn't noticed the long grain orientation and you are absolutely correct, no additional strength required since a long grain glueup here is as strong as it gets. The OP just needs registration for clamping and biscuits would work well.

Other tricks would include a lock rabbeted miter joint, which can be done on the table saw. This joint has the benefit of locking in the miter for excellent alignment when gluing.

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I can't remember the episode (season 9 or 10?), but woodsmithshop had a decent detailed description of how to do this.

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#20 ·
Matt, I wish I could offer more insight. I have a PC 555 which isn't quite as fancy as the 557 but it does what I need it too. I have to register mine the way the ryobi is pictured and while I've gotten pretty good at it, I think I'll try the setup being used with the dewalt pictured, seems like there'd be less chance of the tool moving during the cut. A lock miter does sound like the best way to go but if your bit is cutting too tight you'd have to adjust after every cut and make a second pass - PITA! A spline would be quicker but I can't help but wonder if it would be as strong? I guess it depends on how deep you cut for the spline.
 
#23 · (Edited by Moderator)
After making my rip cuts I had these pretty cutoffs that I saved thinking there must be something I can do with them.
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Then I watched the video that was linked showing miter joint clamps. So I scrounged up some 1/4" plywood and cut it into stops. Then I quickly glued them up with some brads to clamp them.
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