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Reply by Mark Kornell

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Posted on Drilling Dog Holes #2

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Mark Kornell

1169 posts in 2646 days


#1 posted 01-15-2017 06:17 AM

^ Dan says he doesn’t have a plunge router..

Dan, your plan is a good one. A guide hole in a 2×4 will get you started pretty close to plumb vertical using a hand drill. A Forstner bit has only 5/8” or so of vertical registration, so even a guide hole in 3/4” sheet stock would be sufficient if you use only the Forstner.

But for a bit better accuracy, use a 2×4 guide hole. Start your dog hole with the Forstner, maybe the first 1/4”. This will give you a clean entry. Switch to the Speed-Bor, keeping the guide block in place, and drill as far as you can. If that isn’t all the way through, remove the guide block and finish off with the Forstner.

Don’t bother with a backer. If there is any blow-out, it won’t have any impact on the performance of the dog holes. And no one will ever see it.

BTW, woodworking isn’t machining metal. Tolerances are two orders of magnitude less. If you can get the holes plumb vertical to 1/16” over 4”, they will work just fine.

Aside, the jigs for square dog holes only work for edge-laminated tops. I did square dogs for my bench (see http://lumberjocks.com/Iguana/blog/40790 ) and it isn’t difficult, but considering you’ve got your top already, round dogs are your only real option.

-- Mark Kornell, Kornell Wood Design


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