Reply by Cosmicsniper

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Posted on Antique glazed finish on cabinet Advice needed.

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2202 posts in 3182 days

#1 posted 09-09-2011 04:43 AM

You really do need to apply the glaze to a film coat. It has to lay atop the piece in order to properly wipe it around. Otherwise, it will stain areas you don’t want colored and the glaze will look spotty in the areas you want it. I would be especially careful with white painted underneath.

I’m doing the same treatment to my own kitchen cabinets. The other day, my wife and I had a glazing party by using small artists brushes to paint in cracks (I recommend the same for you) and a slightly damp cloth to wipe it down to achieve the gradient/taper/sunburst we needed on several cabinet doors and drawer fronts. We were rolling along and my wife started on another door, but this time the glaze didn’t respond the same way. It immediate got absorbed into the regularly stained areas and became a real problem that I could only fix with going back to bare wood. Of course, what happened was that the door in question got mixed in with the sealed doors and I didn’t realize that it lacked that important sealcoat of shellac (which I tend to use for such barrier coats, chiefly because of its drying speed).

And this is when using more of a “paint on, wipe off gently and quickly” technique. If you smeared it on and waited a while for it to “flash,” as is commonly done with a glaze, then the problem could have been much worse.

Now I’ve glazed many projects over the years without hardly any problems, but the one time I did have an issue was because I failed to create that film barrier over the colored undercoat.

If in doubt, finish a test board using all those techniques and options. Watch what happens when you try one with the glaze applied immediately to that white paint. You won’t like the result.

-- jay,

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