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oil-based poly - satin over semi-gloss?

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finishing
2K views 8 replies 8 participants last post by  Cooler 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
First, this is not about a fine woodworking project. I have an old Ikea dresser in a spare bedroom that has fallen victim to various abuses over the years. I decided on a whim to lightly sand the top and apply some new finish just to make it a little less ugly.

I had some minwax poly laying around and it was semi-gloss. Really wanted to go with less sheen than semi, but it was sitting there and it was "free". Figured I could just buy some less glossy and do a second coat with that if it was too shiny.

Well, you guessed it. The semi turned out to produce a very glossy result, and I bought a can of satin and put a coat of that on it…doesn't seem like it knocked down the sheet AT ALL.

So, I'm wondering…is the notion that a lower sheen poly over a shiny poly will knock down the sheen just broken? Does that not work in general? Or does it take a bunch of coats?

Should I just forget about "building up a lower sheen" with a few more coats and go ahead and sand the sheen off and start over? (being very careful not to sand through the paper-thin veneer)

note: both the semi-gloss and the satin are "fast drying" oil-based minwax poly from Lowes.
 
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#3 ·
Are we talking brush-on? Applying one coat of satin over a semi-gloss should give you satin. Maybe the satin is just still glossier than you would like. You might try one more coat to see if it makes a difference, but you definitely don't need multiple coats.

If that doesn't work you can try the paper bag trick chrisstef recommended, or buff with 0000 steel wool.
 
#5 ·
Oggie is right, semi-gloss and satin have silica added as a flattening agent and this stuff settles out and requires a good mixing before use.

Normally I find it much better to use gloss, then flatten it out with the 0000 wool followed by a brown paper bag polish. The silica will obscure the grain and make the finish appear foggy. In you case (just want a quick finish), mix it up good, then apply. If it is still too glossy, try the steel wool.
 
#6 ·
Ahhhh, I see. It "looked ok" in the can, so I didn't bother to actually stir it with a stick.

This will likely solve the problem. If not, I'll use the other techniques suggested.

This forum is awesome!
 
#7 ·
Some really knowledgeable woodworkers on this forum. Hopefully y'all can help me. I have been given a five gallon container of oil modified polyurethane gym floor finish. Really good product but has a very high gloss. It has it's place on some projects but I would like to flatten it some to a satin if possible. I called the mfg. and the tech there didn't have a clue and doubted it could be done since it was a specialty product designed for one purpose. Being a hard head set in my ways I have a problem with that answer and believe anything can be modified or adjusted. Hopefully someone on here can prove me right. I have tried using 1/3 poly, 1/3 BLO and 1/3 mineral spirits. That toned it down but not to the level I was hoping for. Any suggestions other than #0000 steel wool till my arm falls off?
 
#9 ·
Stir them well! Unstirred satin and semi-gloss finishes are just gloss with a slurry of flattening agent in the bottom.

- OggieOglethorpe
That was my first reaction. I only use the satin or semi-gloss for the final coat. It gives a nicer effect because the finish is not so cloudy.

Also, elbow grease with 600 or 800 grit wet or dry might be an alternative.
 
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