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Reply by David Grimes

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Posted on Making Engineered Wood Flooring

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David Grimes

2072 posts in 1307 days


#1 posted 05-19-2011 08:21 AM

“Engineered” flooring is mostly 3/8”, 1/2”, 5/8” and 3/4”. All can nail down, some can glue OR nail, and some can even “float” like laminate.

First, each of the plies’ grain alternates direction each layer. This goes a very long way in making these floors stay flat and are not prone to “cupping” as traditional solid floors are. Expansion and contraction is greatly lessoned versus traditional solid floor, so cracking open in the winter and closing in the summer is eliminated or greatly decreased.

The number of plies depends generally (of course) on the overall thickness, but it can vary within each thickness. Sometimes the top ply (what we call the “wear surface” is a bit thicker so that there is the possibility of refinishing the floor at least once down the road.

I see this is a nearly year-old thread, but wonder if you ever did this ?

My experience / take on engineered flooring (we sell and install):

Fit and finish is superior to raw or finished solid tongue-in-groove flooring. It is available flat, with micro-bevel, bevel, hand-scraped, etc. Wood species = many, including exotics.

Finally, the finished top often has many (usually 6-8) very thin “perfect factory-applied” layers of urethane that has aluminum oxide suspended in the material. This clear mineral additive adds great strength and durability to the finish (up to ten times that of urethane alone). In oak hardness or better, you can let a fat lady in high heels clog or river dance on it without making divots. Well, maybe not river dance. lol

You may not roll that way, but I doubt that anyone could come even remotely close to duplicating even an average engineered floor product without incurring prohibitively great expense.

-- If you're going to stir the pot, think BIG spoon or SMALL boat paddle. David Grimes, Georgia


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