LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner

What drill bit to use for bookcase shelf pin holes?

40K views 14 replies 13 participants last post by  Sawkerf 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
So apparently your typical .25" typical twist bit is a no go…so what should I use to create the perfect, clean shelf pin holes?
 
#3 · (Edited by Moderator)
.25" is ok if you're using .25" shelf pins. You get a snug fit that way. Don't
use a standard twist drill though; use a brad point or a twist drill sharpened
to a "cabinetmaker's point" (which is a shop-made version of brad points).

You can also use a .25" twist end mill in a plunge router.

Shelf pins usually come in 5mm or .25", which is closer to 6mm.

If using the 5mm pins, there's a fractional inch size drill that will work,
but you can buy a 5mm bit online easily enough. Local stores are not
likely to carry metric bits, much less metric brad points.
 
#8 · (Edited by Moderator)
I use a .25" downward spiral bit in my plunge router with a 3/8 Outer Diameter collet. I have a few shop made jigs that have a 3/8 dado and 3/8" holes spaced every 2". The dado is aligned with the holes to keep the collet in line so as to not have to search for each hole. Works great! The downward spiral bit keeps veneers and laminates chip free and the plunge router ensures 90* holes every time.

Bit was $17 on amazon, well worth it.
 
#10 ·
luke
Norm built a similar jig several years ago. I modified it somewhat so it looks almost like a drywall t-square. Beauty is using the plunge router, I think get more uniform depth control plus if the template holes aren't exactly spaced (I'm talking about .00x something), it doesn't really matter as long as the jig is orientated on the same top or bottom edge (i.e. if hole 1 is 1", but hole 2 is 1 1/64" from hole 1, moving the jig from the right side of a panel to the left side will keep the same pattern (no rocking of the shelves). When first made, the holes that accept the guide bushing are a little tight but with time they loosen up. It's amazingly fast to set-up (use the quick clamps) and use. I find I spend more time in moving it around than I do boring the holes!).
 
#11 ·
The jig teejk spoke of is the one I have used for many years. I have had great success in using it. If you are interested in it I can take a picture of it for you. It is very easy to build.

Now a table saw for Mothers day is different.
 
#15 ·
A twist drill is probably the right size, but it isn't easy to keep them from "wandering" without some kind of jig. I've built several over the years - usually from peg board - and they have worked pretty well until they begin to wear a bit and get a little sloppy.

I got a jig from Rockler about three years ago and consider the $35 cost a real bargain. Mine uses a 1/4" Vix-type bit with a collar that fits into the jig holes. I can crank out shelf pin holes for a full height bookcase in a matter of minutes and they're always dead-on.

The most common pin diameters are 1/4" and 5mm.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top