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Natural cherry finish: Use CN Blotch control?

2K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  jklingel 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Im working on a cherry tv stand using aged cherry. My plan was just to use ArmRSeal topcoat.

Its a bit 'figured' here and there, i dabbed some MinWax wipe on poly onto a scrap piece and the client would prefer not to see much of the figure (the part that lightens/darkens depending on light and angle).

Would Charles Neil blotch control have any effect on this?

Also has anyone else used CN Blotch Control when finishing cherry naturally? If so how applications coats worked best? Thanks for any input!

Jason
 
#2 ·
I have used CN Blotch Control many times and I love it. I used it on poplar when I was making a mockup chest and used BC as directed and then applied water based dye to mimic aged cherry. No blotching period. I have also used it on cherry and pine with the same results.
I highly recommend it.
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
Any of the sealing products are just very thin finish, and they will do what you want. Since it's a customer, I'd say you have to do as they wish…but to me "blotching" is just figure in the wood that should be seen. As Charles said, this will even out some over time
 
#6 ·
I haven't used CN blotch control, but I've used glue sizing which works the same and is much cheaper, and yes, it works even with OB poly to control the blotching on cherry. ~ 1 to 5 Elmer's glue all with water, one coat, allow to completely soak the wood and wipe off. Using a clear, non ambering WB finish vs ob poly would work as well.
 
#9 ·
Any of the sealing products are just very thin finish, and they will do what you want. Since it s a customer, I d say you have to do as they wish…but to me "blotching" is just figure in the wood that should be seen. As Charles said, this will even out some over time

- Fred Hargis
I agree!
I think most of the problem comes from the stain application. If you're wiping on stain, everywhere you overlap darkens the wood and leaves a blotching look, depending on the type stain. JMO
I spray the stain so that I can cover the whole panel, then wipe off keeping everything consistent.
On larger panels I do half the panel (with the grain) wipe, then the other half. I like the Natural Absorption that the wood takes on.
 
#10 ·
The glue sizing acts as a sealer, and is used as any other sealer: for blotch control, end grain, mdf, etc. Wait until dry - depends on temp, humidity, and how much the wood soaked up. Anywhere from 1-4 hrs usually. Any pva glue works, I use Elmer's glue all because it dries clear and doesn't effect color.
 
#11 ·
I've used his BC and it works as advertised. I don't call it blotching myself but blushing and like it myself. However I've had clients that prefer the even look and it will help. You can minimize with dyes and never use a stain. When I want to color to get that 100 year look with out the waiting, his is an excellent product and is worth it.

That's my opinion and that and a buck fifty will get you a cup of coffee.
 
#12 ·
thanks for the info on glue sizing. i would have never guessed what it does from the name. i will add it to my small data bank of knowledge…. on another note, is there anything to be gained by using glue sizing, then sanding, to minimize grain raising before you add finish? an old woodshop teacher told me to do that, but he did not call it by name. he said the grain will raise, then get sanded off, not to raise again. it does not seem to do much in my limited attempts. cheers. j
 
#13 ·
Water and water based products cause grain raising, oil or alcohol based do not. If you are using a water based stain/dye, after your final sanding, squirt water, distilled if your tap water leaves stains (test it!), all over the project surface (do one side/section at a time) until absorption stops, then wipe off. Usually 5 min or so. Let dry. Use the next grit up to lightly sand the raised grain smooth. If it hasn't helped, either you didn't soak the wood enough, or over sanded the raised grain, which is easy to do. If blotching is a concern, use glue sizing instead of plain water.

If you are applying a WB finish on bare wood, most all are self sealing. Just apply the first coat of finish, let dry, then sand smooth and apply another coat. Nothing really gained by using plain water first to raise the grain.
 
#14 ·
If you are applying a WB finish on bare wood, most all are self sealing. Just apply the first coat of finish, let dry, then sand smooth and apply another coat. Nothing really gained by using plain water first to raise the grain.

- OSU55
This is worth repeating. After the first coat of finish is applied to a surface with reaised grain, the finish locks the fibers in place…sand it smooth and apply whatever additional coats you need.
 
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