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23K views 38 replies 29 participants last post by  JGM0658 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I have stanley buckbros craftsmen
no 6 c bench jack
9
91/2
55
I dont know the numbers on the buck or the craftsmen but I'll get u'm

I want a big jointer, a router, a shoulder, a rabit, and a high angle scraper type?
(my 55 is supposed to do the middle 2 I just haven't found the office max ez button on it yet. I am sure it is there that thing has every other knob,screw and lever ever invented)

I think everyone should have a no 9 1/2 the handiest critter you can stick in your pocket.
 
#29 ·
Stanley #3 (Vintage 1894-1898)
Stanley #4 (Post WWII)
Stanley #5 (Vintage 1916)
Stanley #5 (Post WWII)
Stanley #7 (Vintage 1920's)
Stanley 12-920 Block Plane
Stanley #92 Shoulder Plane
Craftsman Filister Plane (Vintage)

The #3, #5, and #7 planes have all been outfitted with Hock blades and chip breakers, the others are using original blades and chip breakers.

The only ones I bought new were the block plane and the shoulder plane. One of the #5's I inherited from my Dad. The others all came from eBay or garage sales.

Of all of them, the one I like the least is the block plane, so I am considering a Lie-Nielsen to replace it.

The one I like the most is the #3.
 
#31 ·
I have

Stanley #3
Stanley #4
Stanley #4C
Stanley #5×2
Stanley #7
Stanley #48 Tonguing and Grooving plane
Stanley #75 Bull nose
Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane
Stanley #103 Block Plane
Stanley #220 Block plane

Shelton #14 Jack plane
Trustworthy plane (Same size as Stanley #3)
Craftsman #4
Craftsman #4 1/2

I have about 8 more that were either broken or no name planes that I use for parts. All of my planes were bought used and most of them have been completely restored. I have spent a lot of time but they all serve me well.
 
#32 · (Edited by Moderator)
Being a second generation, too many planes to list. I would say the ideal starter set would be a number 3 (Old Stanley is the best choice for the money… but given some time most brands will not rattle…) and a block plane, I prefer a 1 3/4" bladed one, any will do similarly. If you're planning on jointing more then about two feet, move it up to (either) a number 4, 5 or 5 1/2. If you're building 10 foot tables, feel free to buy and store a number 6, 7 or 8. A 4 1/2 or 604 1/4 let alone the stuffed English planes are not a must, but if you feel you'll be turing a lot of your boards, this will save you a lot of pain pressing down on the board. A rabbit plane is a must, if you haven't purchased one of the 30+ types out there, I suggest getting one (or both if you have the money) of the Veritas angled rabbit plane with a fence. It won't be as thin a slot as your Stanley 90, but it'll make amazingly clean cuts on your tenons… which is why most of us own a rabbit anyway. If you need a reasonable price, grab a Stanley 78 for $10 anywhere old tools are sold, it'll work great. If you're looking at getting smaller dados then say a 90 can handle, I would suggest the Veritas detail rabbits… if you're not likely to, then their is no other purpose to get that tool.
If you're buying new, and not used, then the skewed blade has become extremely popular on modern models. I do suggest this, it will cut cleaner and faster. I would only rate it about twice as good… look at fine furniture from the 1800's, you'll notice they're all hacks, and clearly couldn't make due with their inferior tools. Oh, and the old wood moulding planes are great once you learn to use them, I suggest finding one (In good shape) with a pleasing shape for edge work and learn to use it. Having fed my fair share of lumber through 45's and 55's, a wooden molding plane is much faster to setup and nearly as easy to use. (Minus some pauses for blade adjustment)

Thus-
Stanley #3, 1 3/4" Blade Block plane, a Rabbit, and a pleasing molding plane. Any or all can be wood, metal, or transitional. All will build equally well as wood expands and contracts well beyond the .0001" tolerances expected from today's tools.
 
#33 ·
I just recently started using handplanes. I currently have a Stanley Handyman jack plane, a Stanley no 4, a Stanley 8C, and a no 33 from harbor freight…before everyone has a heart attack about the harbor freight plane, I have to say for 10 bucks this thing is a steal and works great. Actually it worked well right out of the box and with the blade sharpened cuts as good if not better than any of the other planes I have. I'm looking to find a good 60 1/2 now.
 
#34 ·
I have found that if you leave a couple of hand planes alone in a drawer for a few weeks, they will reproduce by themselves. In a year you will find at least a half dozen in that drawer and wonder what happened.
 
#39 ·
I have found that if you leave a couple of hand planes alone in a drawer for a few weeks, they will reproduce by themselves. In a year you will find at least a half dozen in that drawer and wonder what happened.

LOL…Yeah, I started with a cheapo stanley made in in Mexico for about $30….somehow it reproduced into way more planes of all different kinds and prices. Yep, hand planes can be a money sucking black hole, but men, when you need them they can make the difference between a great job and a mediocre one.
 
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