Reply by Stonekettle

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Posted on WorkSharp 3000 Arrives!!!

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135 posts in 2901 days

#1 posted 02-02-2011 02:15 AM

I have both the WS 2000 and the 3000. I have the leather stropping wheel permanantly mounted on the 2000 due to its higher rotational speed and that’s all I use it for. The 3000 I use for everything else. It is hands down the best machine on the market for sharpening handplane irons and wood chisels – and I have the optional add-on top deck and guide for large/wide blades. Make sure to go through the calibration and squaring process specified in the manual, you want the blade guides perfectly square. My local industrial hardware store periodically does overstock sales and I picked up a number of additional glass wheels for pennies on the dollar, along with packs of sharpening paper. I recommend getting a couple of extra glass wheels if you can afford it, they’re good for specialty grits – I’ve got one with 14000grit micromesh that I use for putting that final scalpel sharp edge on plane irons. You might want to pick up a couple packs of coarse grit if you have a lot of tools that you’ll be regrinding initially. Once they are properly trued you won’t need the coarse grit any more, but when I first got my WS I wore out a dozen large grit wheels regrinding all of my plane irons and wood chisels – just because the edge you can get with WS is so amazing. I’ve collected, refurbished, and built handplanes for years, and the WS’s ability to true and sharpen the irons really makes using them a joy. You won’t believe the curls you get.

I also use the see-through wheels for sharpening turning tools and carving knives. I usually put a basic edge on skews or gouges using a bench grinder, and then put a final edge on using the underneath see-through wheel on the 3000. It takes some practice to learn the proper techique especially free-style shapening on the bench grinder (of course, you could use a Wolverine jig, but I shapen turning tools so often that I’m used to doing it free-style), but it doesn’t take much to learn how to do it on the WS3000 – following the directions in the WS manual you’ll be putting an edge on turning tools and carving gouges like a pro in no time. A quick freehand strop on the stropping wheel when they start to dull is enough to put the edge back on without having to turn off the lathe.

Because I’m primarly a turner and carver, I spend a significant fraction of my time sharpening tools. I own damned near every type of shapening gadget there is. Nowadays they all sit unused under the workbench (and that includes the Tormek) and I use the grinder and the WS 2000 and 3000 almost exclusively.

-- Jim Wright, Stonekettle Station

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