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Reply by gljacobs

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Posted on My wood is too dry.

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gljacobs

76 posts in 1440 days


#1 posted 01-27-2011 03:31 AM

The first thought that comes to mind if your going to route it and it’s to dry that will cause tear out is to use backers for whatever the application.
If it’s inlay stuff or relief carving like you have done for your other projects than you may consider cutting the stock an inch or so over final dimension and then taking thin stock of about an eighth inch or so (luan, thin milled hardwood, whatever) and cutting it to the same dimension, then apply glue around the edge of the ceder and clamp the backer stock to it using cauls all the way around the edge. This may provide enough support to the fibers in order to avoid surface tear out. baring in mind that the crux will lie in the stock and the backer mating each other in the same plane. Any cupping or irregularity between the boards will most likely defeat the purpose.
Then after all is routed rip to final dimension to release the cedar.

Warning: this is just an idea. I have never attempted it and would use caution and practice on non-valued stock to prove the process correct before proceeding.

As for helping sturdy it up. You could glue(epoxy or whatever) some counter laminate or some thin steel sheet metal(anything stiff and thin really) to the non-face side and before you do, lacquer or seal the wood all around to prevent moisture transition. It’s probably as dry as it’s going to get, so you just want to avoid compression set. If the moisture comes back and it’s restrained in place, then it’ll get compression set and that’s when the problems will start if it drys out again.

I hope this doesn’t seem to convoluted and helps opens some avenues of thought.


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