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DJ-20 fence compatibility with perhaps Grizzly G0490

2K views 19 replies 6 participants last post by  synergiesabound 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi, I recently picked up a pristine DJ-20 without a fence assembly. Would you happen to know where I can pick one up?

I hear the Grizzly G0490 bolts right on but I'm not sure? If you have a G0490 would you mind measuring the distance between the mounting bolt holes? And perhaps the distance from the same bolt holes to the top of a flush outfeed table?

Thank you very much, I'm new to all this and appreciate this website.
 
#4 ·
Toolparts Direct appears to have the fence and related parts piecemeal. If the link doesn't take you directly to the schematic, choose "shop by brand" , pick Delta, and type in your model #
http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/delta-37-350-8-jointer.html

The fence is half way reasonably priced, but you will need to add up all the pivots, bolts and associated hardware to see the total cost.
 
#5 ·
The part is actually not available.

If the bolt holes on the Grizzly replacement fence make a swap feasible I guess I can rig something that can offer the adjustability I'd need. Obviously moving it across the blade is essential. No need for anything other than 90s at this point but you know how it goes with wanting to get it to full functionality.
 
#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
Remember… There's nothing at all precision about moving the fence across the knives, it doesn't even have to stay perfectly parallel to board travel. On my DJ-20, I don't even worry if the fence is square to the tables when I'm face jointing, only when I'm squaring an edge. Sometimes, I don't even contact the fence when face jointing.

Whatever you come up with, the focus only needs to be maintaining a vertical angle in relation to the tables when edge jointing. The rest is gravy.

I've seen larger, 12 and 16 inch jointers in pro shops that don't even have fences installed, as they're used exclusively for faces.
 
#9 ·
Oggie, thanks you for the input. I realized what you were saying about not necessarily needing the fence after a few passes as a newbie with my 6". I'm thinking I can clamp a board when I need to make full 8" passes, but that kinda bites. Thanks for the info. If ya got any other suggestions I'd love to hear em. ;)
 
#11 ·
While I think some of them will work, I doubt any of them will be plug and play. You will most likely have to rework some aspect of them to get them functional. Still seems like the easiest approach, even if a machine shop has to help.
 
#13 ·
Looking at mine, the hard part is building the right angle fixture that joins the fence to the bed mounting plate, allowing it to slide forward and back. You could clamp it with a threaded knob through the slot in the mounting plate.

To keep it simpler for starters, you could stick with a set, but shimmable for fine tuning, 90 deg fence.

I haven't watched Ger's posted video, but BB ply would work fine, with the fence itself laminated both sides with Formica. You just need to ensure it's not twisted, warped or bent, but you've got the outfeed table to use as a reference. With Ply, you could use the torsion box method that's all over the web and in books.

You could also brick up a 1 1/2 - 2" thick fence from a super stable wood like Mahogany, and face joint the stack after the glue dries for a few weeks. I build sled fences this way, from 1-1/2 to 2" wide face frame scraps. This would ensure a flat face, and you'd shim it perfectly vertical to the mount assembly. Paste wax the heck out of the working face to help the action.

If the solid fence goes out of flat in the future, remove the fence face and give it another thin face jointing.
 
#14 ·
Thanks Fred. Building my own fence sounds like another project. This wood working thing sure seems to take a lot of time doing other things like building jigs and the likes. Ger21, I watched that video and looks good imo but the DJ-20 seems to only have the 2 mounting bolts that insert horizontally. Oggie, thanks for the torsion box tip, it's a new one on me that I need to check out. I'm not sure where to find laminated Baltic Birch, which seems to do well for these sort of applications where things need to slide and keep straight over time, so I'm thinking your glue up might be the ticket. Would this technique be utilizing the end grain as the face?
 
#16 ·
Ger21, I watched that video and looks good imo but the DJ-20 seems to only have the 2 mounting bolts that insert horizontally.
So, if you look at the parts list in the link above, you don't even have [art #10, which bolts to those two holes?
If that's the case, get yourself a piece of 3"x3"x3/8" steel angle, bolt it using those two bolts, and mount your homemade fence assembly to the angle.
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=9886&step=4&showunits=inches&id=276&top_cat=849
Watch this video to see how this guy built a fence for his homemade jointer, starting around the 40 second mark.
 
#17 ·
Building my own fence sounds like another project. This wood working thing sure seems to take a lot of time doing other things like building jigs and the likes.
My last 3 big projects have been building tools/equipment for the shop. Some of them were needed to make it easier to build more tools, lol.
 
#18 ·
so I m thinking your glue up might be the ticket. Would this technique be utilizing the end grain as the face?
Noooooo… That would be a real pain to surface…

Glue up rift sawn material (diagonal end grain) face to face, alternating the slope direction when viewed from the end. The layers don't have to be the same thickness or species, only approximately the same width, and minor differences in width or major differences in length will be jointed, planed, and trimmed later. My layers end up being from 1/4" to 2" thick each, depending on where they came from, usually combined to make blanks 3-1/2 to 5" tall.

After an hour or so in the clamps, scrape off the mostly hard squeezed out glue with a carbide paint scraper and let it dry a few more hours. Remove the clamps and place the plank in a safe place for a few weeks to fully dry and acclimate. I toss glued up stacks back on my lumber rack and forget about them for a while.

When it's fully dry and you're ready to use the blank, face joint one side, clean up the other in a thickness planer, square at least one side to one face (mark the perfect corner one!), then square the ends. Exact thickness doesn't matter, you're just looking for two parallel faces on a stock as thick as possible after cleanup, with one edge as close to a perfect 90 from one face as you can. In your case, you'll be able to shim the mounting assembly to a perfect 90, so you probably don't have to be as fussy as you would if the part were going on a joinery sled. Check your reference face against your jointer outfeed bed for to make sure it's as flat as you can get it.

This is what I do with all of my leftover extra leg blanks, which are pretty much always made with rift sawn material, and rift sawn frame stock. All of my reference fences for sleds and jigs are made from various lengths of these blanks. I learned the technique from some long time North Benet Street School instructors. I'll post a photo of a blank and finished fence in the next day or so…
 
#20 ·
JJ - it might be a bit before I get to the build since I really would like to find someone with the Grizzly G0490 in order to at least see if there are some parts there I can make use of.

Ger21 - that's awesome! Really cool homemade job but do you think it would eventually go out of 90 since I didn't see any means to make corrections or adjustments to other fence angles. Tools to build other tools - I'm getting the idea here, lol. Thanks so much for the useful info. I did the comparison you mentioned and am still hopeful that I can find someone in my area with the Grizzly G0490. Thanks again!

Oogie - Thanks very much for detailing the build. I completed my 1st joinery glue up with some good results but don't feel confident enough to take it on. I suppose it's not too bad but I dunno, I guess I'm still hoping for the simple solution. Nevertheless I feel like I learned something and might be able to make use of your technique, be it with the fence or something else later on down the road. Thanks a lot.
 
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