Reply by Viktor

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Posted on New to veneer

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466 posts in 3447 days

#1 posted 12-30-2010 07:33 PM

Try heat activated glue (such as Titebond II). Spread the glue with a roller on both surfaces, let it dry, press with hot iron through a piece of paper. Work from the center out. Easy to correct mistakes – just iron it again. Work at your own pace. Lots of info on this on the web. This is by far the easiest, fastest, least messy, 0 investment approach. I tried it on burl veneer too. Perfect every time. I don’t understand why people even bother with clamping or vacuuming on flat surfaces.
They say never put glue on the veneer only on the substrate. I am yet to see why. When you put glue on veneer it rolls up and then straightens back when the glue dries. Titebond is thick and when spread with a roller (not with a spatula) will not flow through small pinholes often present in burls to the other side. Spatula may presses glue into the surface too hard. Wait for it to dry, slap it on the substrate prepared the same way and iron. The only word of caution: if veneer has cracks, they may expand due to intense heat (rapid drying) from the iron. You can mitigate this by decreasing temperature and cushioning.
Another easy approach is hammer veneering. The down side of this one is that hide glue is least water resistant of woodworking glues.
Good luck.

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